Of warm bun maska, spicy baida curry and Scotch broth
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Riyaaz Amlani|Café Naaz|Brabourne
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MUMBAI: The recent reopening of an iconic cafe in South Mumbai had us
put the nostalgia broth on the front burner. In a city where fickle
tastebuds, combined with an equally fickle hospitality industry, have
together ensured the expiration of several old favourites, the broth, as
you can imagine, had many takers.
Cartoonist Hemant Morparia finds that places with character are increasingly rare. "Either one has to endure global levels of standardisation with places like Starbucks. Or then you have places where you have to pay an arm and a leg. Both these options are unpalatable. It makes more sense to have friends over for food," he says.
Morparia's list of old Mumbai favourites includes, Cafe Naaz, Malabar Hill and Brabourne Restaurant, Dhobi Talao. He elaborates, "Naaz was a part of the city's topography. It had character and it was accessible. These days you're enclosed everywhere you go, Naaz was open and how. That view from Naaz was unparalleled. Brabourne, owned by film critic Rashid Irani, also made for an interesting visit. You could either hobnob with a local drunkard or talk with films with Irani."
Film-maker Saeed Mirza who currently shuttles between Mumbai and Goa, recalls, "Over the years I've seen a lot of places go away. Even now, I remember Gourdon very fondly; it used be in the vicinity of Gaylord Restaurant. I had many long conversations with Vijay Tendulkar there." Mirza also cites Wayside Inn at Kala Ghoda and Pyrkes at Flora Fountain as old favourites that are no longer around. He adds wistfully, "There's a lot in this city I'd like to see revived."
Actor, writer and director Makrand Deshpande speaks fondly of the unostentatious Cafe Mailoo, a former theatre adda. He says, "It hasn't really shut down but it has changed a great deal. It used to be open to the road and humble. Now they've taken all the charm out of it and put in an air-conditioner instead. It feels so closed; nothing of the old place survives."
While the baida curry at Mailoo was a huge hit, the waiter who took the orders is memorable too. Deshpande remarks, "This straight-faced muchhad guy in long pyjamas would walk around taking our orders. We would go there whenever we through with a rehearsal or a performance. Mailoo remained open till 1.30 pm and was always busy with people from the Gujarati, Hindi and Marathi theatre scene." When asked about the missing English theatrewallas, Deshpande laughs and responds, "Vile Parle (East) was not their scene, yaar."
Mailoo's proximity to Dinanath Mangeshkar Natya Griha and Bhaidas Hall worked in its favour. Discussing the atmosphere Deshpande states, "Theatre professionals and amateurs were there in equal numbers. Bumping into theatre biggies was also not out of the ordinary. Recently someone suggested we go there for old times' sake and I refused because it's just not the same any more."
Riyaaz Amlani, CEO and MD, Impresario Entertainment and Hospitality, which owns Salt Water Cafe and the Mocha chain of coffee shops, wouldn't mind seeing The Wayside Inn and Bastani and Co, Dhobi Talao, get resurrected. He says, "Wayside Inn had so much history; Dr Ambedkar drafted our Constitution there; surely that accounts for something. I also miss bun maska at Bastani."
Incidentally Amlani's Mocha lists bun maska on its menu but it doesn't have the notice board from Bastani. Like all Irani cafes, the notice urged patrons of the legendary eatery to not smoke, not fight, not spit, not talk loudly and the like. The notice board at Bastani caught poet Nissim Ezekiel's attention and he wrote a poem on it. While Bastani was a favourite of Ezekiel, The Wayside Inn is invoked in Arun Kolatkar's Kala Ghoda Poems. Poets have long since stopped dedicating entire poems to Mumbai's cafes and with good reason too.
The much-missed Naaz open-air restaurant atop Malabar Hill, that played host to many a budding love story and afforded an unparalleled view of the Queen's Necklace and Girgaum Chowpatty for several years before it was shut in 2000, is staging a comeback in a new avatar.
In six month's time, 20-feet-high twin viewing galleries will rise where a rather forlorn looking ground-plus-one structure that housed the restaurant famous for its hot samosas and tea now stands. While the view from the restaurant was restricted only to Marine Drive, the sight from the viewing gallery, because of its height, will be 360* and will cover the majestic Hanging Gardens too.
The Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation, which has set aside Rs 23.80 lakh for the project, plans to provide
binoculars
to the visitors at the viewing ramp for a small fee. The 600 sq feet
ramp comprising the twin galleries will have glass railings and
minimalist seating, making it almost merge with the lush green of
Malabar Hill.
“Mumbai lacks an observatory like the one that exists atop the Empire State building in New York. Though the viewing ramp will be only 20-feet high, remember it will stand atop Malabar Hill. The view will be stunning and I think tourists visiting Mumbai deserve it,” said Additional Municipal Commissioner Manu Kumar Srivastava.
The design for the viewing galleries, christened Vantage Point by the BMC, has been approved. A staircase will be built at the footpath in front of the existing structure to take the visitor to the galleries. This will eliminate any interference with the work of BMC's Hydraulic Department that has a facility under the spot where the ramp will be built.
Naaz in its heyday was a favourite with the Bollywood and television industry. Dozens of movies, including Aaashiqui, Sadak, Aatish and Parinda, were shot here.
Would the BMC allow film shoots again at the spot? “This has not been discussed. But I guess with permission from competent authorities that should be possible,” said a BMC official requesting anonymity.
The corporation, however, has no plan to allow any eatery on the ramp. So, those wanting to sip a drink while imbibing the shimmer and glitter of Queen’s Necklace as they did when Naaz was in business, it's going to be a bit of a disappointment.
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Kyani is now 103 years old; we are supposed to be the oldest Irani cafe still operating.
AFLATOON SHOKRIYE
My name is Aflatoon Khodadad Shokriye. Khodadad is my fathers name, Shokriye is our family name. Aflatoon Khodadad Shokriye. I came to Bombay from the city of Yazd in Iran in 1948. My father was here, he sent me a visa, student visa to study here. At that time I was 18 years old.
The trip was during monsoon, up to Quetta it was OK- we went from Yazd to Kerman, Kerman to Zahedan, Zahedan to Quetta. From Quetta again we came to Karachi, from Karachi we came by steamer to Mumbai. I was along with some three, four people from Yazd. One was aged like my father, and he was our neighbour in Yazd, his son was there and another fellow was there of my age. It was a journey I will never forget. Ever. More tham one week of travelling.
In the past, people from offices, from Fountain, from Colaba, they used to come to Dhobi Talao, because there were two big shops selling confectionary – Bastani and Kyani - across the road from each other. Now there is only Kyani, so they go wherever they like to buy their requirements. Bastani closing has affected our business, you see. The nature of the business at Bastani was the same as Kyani. When it was there it was better. The movement of the people is now restricted. When Bastani was still there lots of people used to come from outside – they would maybe buy their sweets at one place, and just walk across the road and have their tea at the other.
Kyani is now 103 years old, we are supposed to be the oldest Irani café still operating. We had to make my sons Farookh and Farad partners in the business; I am old now, any moment I may leave to go.
FROM an interview with Aflatoon Shokriye, Dhobi Talao, Mumbai, April 2007.
==========================================================================
Brabourne Restaurant -- for a wake to celebrate the end of this gem of a restaurant run by the most erudite of restaurateurs, Rashid Irani, film critic and buff extraordinaire who led the most incongruous existence as part-beer bar owner and part-writer."
===========================================================================
glad to see this sign up some time later!
The interior of the shop has always been rather functional and plain.
At the entrance is the busy office where half the extended family of the owners seem to hang out.
If you were to go in the morning you'd see a host of blue liveried Parsi Dairy Farm milkmen milling around waiting to get their milk churns filled before setting off to deliver it throughout the city. Parsi Dairy Milk is still recognised as a guaranteed quality product and commands a premium price.
Call me prejudiced, or perhaps it's because I was brought up on them, but I think Parsi Dairy Farm "pendas" are the best you can find - mawa, kesari and barela varieties. You can't beat a great penda/peda, need I say more?
brabourne
Lagan nu Custard. Nice, but not optimum.
Arun Kolatkar pictured at the Wayside Inn, Kala Ghoda, Bombay, 1995 (photo: Madhu Kapparath).
Cartoonist Hemant Morparia finds that places with character are increasingly rare. "Either one has to endure global levels of standardisation with places like Starbucks. Or then you have places where you have to pay an arm and a leg. Both these options are unpalatable. It makes more sense to have friends over for food," he says.
Morparia's list of old Mumbai favourites includes, Cafe Naaz, Malabar Hill and Brabourne Restaurant, Dhobi Talao. He elaborates, "Naaz was a part of the city's topography. It had character and it was accessible. These days you're enclosed everywhere you go, Naaz was open and how. That view from Naaz was unparalleled. Brabourne, owned by film critic Rashid Irani, also made for an interesting visit. You could either hobnob with a local drunkard or talk with films with Irani."
Film-maker Saeed Mirza who currently shuttles between Mumbai and Goa, recalls, "Over the years I've seen a lot of places go away. Even now, I remember Gourdon very fondly; it used be in the vicinity of Gaylord Restaurant. I had many long conversations with Vijay Tendulkar there." Mirza also cites Wayside Inn at Kala Ghoda and Pyrkes at Flora Fountain as old favourites that are no longer around. He adds wistfully, "There's a lot in this city I'd like to see revived."
Actor, writer and director Makrand Deshpande speaks fondly of the unostentatious Cafe Mailoo, a former theatre adda. He says, "It hasn't really shut down but it has changed a great deal. It used to be open to the road and humble. Now they've taken all the charm out of it and put in an air-conditioner instead. It feels so closed; nothing of the old place survives."
While the baida curry at Mailoo was a huge hit, the waiter who took the orders is memorable too. Deshpande remarks, "This straight-faced muchhad guy in long pyjamas would walk around taking our orders. We would go there whenever we through with a rehearsal or a performance. Mailoo remained open till 1.30 pm and was always busy with people from the Gujarati, Hindi and Marathi theatre scene." When asked about the missing English theatrewallas, Deshpande laughs and responds, "Vile Parle (East) was not their scene, yaar."
Mailoo's proximity to Dinanath Mangeshkar Natya Griha and Bhaidas Hall worked in its favour. Discussing the atmosphere Deshpande states, "Theatre professionals and amateurs were there in equal numbers. Bumping into theatre biggies was also not out of the ordinary. Recently someone suggested we go there for old times' sake and I refused because it's just not the same any more."
Riyaaz Amlani, CEO and MD, Impresario Entertainment and Hospitality, which owns Salt Water Cafe and the Mocha chain of coffee shops, wouldn't mind seeing The Wayside Inn and Bastani and Co, Dhobi Talao, get resurrected. He says, "Wayside Inn had so much history; Dr Ambedkar drafted our Constitution there; surely that accounts for something. I also miss bun maska at Bastani."
Incidentally Amlani's Mocha lists bun maska on its menu but it doesn't have the notice board from Bastani. Like all Irani cafes, the notice urged patrons of the legendary eatery to not smoke, not fight, not spit, not talk loudly and the like. The notice board at Bastani caught poet Nissim Ezekiel's attention and he wrote a poem on it. While Bastani was a favourite of Ezekiel, The Wayside Inn is invoked in Arun Kolatkar's Kala Ghoda Poems. Poets have long since stopped dedicating entire poems to Mumbai's cafes and with good reason too.
A 20-feet high viewing gallery to be
built atop Malabar Hill where the much-romanced, much-filmed Naaz
open-air restaurant once stood
Posted On Thursday, November 15, 2007
 |
The much-missed Naaz open-air restaurant atop Malabar Hill, that played host to many a budding love story and afforded an unparalleled view of the Queen's Necklace and Girgaum Chowpatty for several years before it was shut in 2000, is staging a comeback in a new avatar.
In six month's time, 20-feet-high twin viewing galleries will rise where a rather forlorn looking ground-plus-one structure that housed the restaurant famous for its hot samosas and tea now stands. While the view from the restaurant was restricted only to Marine Drive, the sight from the viewing gallery, because of its height, will be 360* and will cover the majestic Hanging Gardens too.
The Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation, which has set aside Rs 23.80 lakh for the project, plans to provide
binoculars
to the visitors at the viewing ramp for a small fee. The 600 sq feet
ramp comprising the twin galleries will have glass railings and
minimalist seating, making it almost merge with the lush green of
Malabar Hill.“Mumbai lacks an observatory like the one that exists atop the Empire State building in New York. Though the viewing ramp will be only 20-feet high, remember it will stand atop Malabar Hill. The view will be stunning and I think tourists visiting Mumbai deserve it,” said Additional Municipal Commissioner Manu Kumar Srivastava.
The design for the viewing galleries, christened Vantage Point by the BMC, has been approved. A staircase will be built at the footpath in front of the existing structure to take the visitor to the galleries. This will eliminate any interference with the work of BMC's Hydraulic Department that has a facility under the spot where the ramp will be built.
Naaz in its heyday was a favourite with the Bollywood and television industry. Dozens of movies, including Aaashiqui, Sadak, Aatish and Parinda, were shot here.
Would the BMC allow film shoots again at the spot? “This has not been discussed. But I guess with permission from competent authorities that should be possible,” said a BMC official requesting anonymity.
The corporation, however, has no plan to allow any eatery on the ramp. So, those wanting to sip a drink while imbibing the shimmer and glitter of Queen’s Necklace as they did when Naaz was in business, it's going to be a bit of a disappointment.
 |
| The structure housing Cafe Naaz, the interiors, and the view from the erstwhile restaurant. Naaz, in its heyday, was a favourite with Bollywood and the television industry. Dozens of movies, including Aaashiqui, Sadak, Aatish and Parinda, were shot here |
BOMBAY TO SONAPUR HAI* 3: Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao
Kyani is now 103 years old; we are supposed to be the oldest Irani cafe still operating.
AFLATOON SHOKRIYE
My name is Aflatoon Khodadad Shokriye. Khodadad is my fathers name, Shokriye is our family name. Aflatoon Khodadad Shokriye. I came to Bombay from the city of Yazd in Iran in 1948. My father was here, he sent me a visa, student visa to study here. At that time I was 18 years old.
Image: Passenger docks, Karachi Port, ca 1940
The trip was during monsoon, up to Quetta it was OK- we went from Yazd to Kerman, Kerman to Zahedan, Zahedan to Quetta. From Quetta again we came to Karachi, from Karachi we came by steamer to Mumbai. I was along with some three, four people from Yazd. One was aged like my father, and he was our neighbour in Yazd, his son was there and another fellow was there of my age. It was a journey I will never forget. Ever. More tham one week of travelling.
Image: Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao, 2007
So
it was monsoon, and in Bombay it was raining, and raining, so many
things which I was not used to! Day and night it was raining. That is
why I was repenting! And the food! Indian food it is, what you call, hot
food. But in our own restaurants we used to make the Iranian type of
food.
When
I arrived in Bombay I was repenting why I came - the Britishers had
left and even at that time the hygienic conditions were not good. I
thought Iran was better. I was new, I did not know language, no friends
and all so I did not like it. Slowly, slowly I changed. The local people
were friendly, good people. When they knew that I did not know the
language, they used to talk more to me, and I picked up the language.
Image: Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao, ca 1980
My
father was here at Kyani, my son is the third generation that are
running this restaurant, so this is a kind of family restaurant,
established 1904 by my father Khodadad and his brother Khodamorad. Here
then it was all Iranis working here. It was an institution, like Iranis,
what you call it, it was like a training college!;they used to come and
learn business, how to prepare, how to do business, and other things,
and they used to go and make partnership with others and start their own
business, set up their own Irani café.
In 1948 in Dhobi Talao Parsis were everywhere, Parsis and Christians. But, uh, slowly, slowly Parsis have migrated out of India, many of them died, many of them they did not get married, the population came down.
In 1948 in Dhobi Talao Parsis were everywhere, Parsis and Christians. But, uh, slowly, slowly Parsis have migrated out of India, many of them died, many of them they did not get married, the population came down.
Image: Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao, ca 1980
My
father told me that the Iranis when they came here, they were working
in the Parsi's houses, they were employed and worked in there, and uh,
in the morning they used to meet, they would gather and discuss about
life and things, so one fellow started preparing tea for the rest, but
he used to charge them. So the idea of making tea came to the mind of
the Iranis, so they started this tea business and all. By 1948, when I
arrived, at every junction almost there was an Irani. They all selected
those junctions, those street corners. Because the junctions are one,
two, three sides of the road. Anything that was available they used to
take.
Falooda - "..a gift from the Iranis to the people of India" says Aflatoon
Today
our customers are a cosmopolitan mix - all types of people. Formerly it
was mainly Christians and Parsis, the majority. But now, it is
cosmopolitan. You cannot stop anybody entering your restaurant. It is a
rule of the government, law. In those days you see, the customer was a
different type of culture. Tie, coat and all. Hindus of high standard
also used to come here. But majority were Parsis and Christians.
In years past Bombay was very safe and we used stop sometimes at 12 o’clock (midnight), but slowly, slowly we have reduced. Because at night people are in a different category in Bombay, they are different. People sometimes make trouble at night. So now we are closing it at 9 o’clock.
In years past Bombay was very safe and we used stop sometimes at 12 o’clock (midnight), but slowly, slowly we have reduced. Because at night people are in a different category in Bombay, they are different. People sometimes make trouble at night. So now we are closing it at 9 o’clock.
I
think our regulars appreciate that we have stayed open, offering this
type of service- we get people coming who were our customers some ten
years back, fifteen years back, they have gone to America, or UK,
Canada, then ten years later they come to Kyani, and they are so happy
to see us, that we have maintained the same type of restaurant. I tell
you, one year I went to America - there was a gathering - all Parsis,
Iranis, and as soon as they saw me they said “ohh, Kyani, he has come
from Kyani in Bombay”. I couldn’t believe it. Incredible how many people
remembered Kyani.
Image: Badam, Butterscotch, Khari, Coconut Jam,Ginger, Cheese Wafers... - Kyani & Co., 2007
Changes?
In about 1952 an Irani had a café, and this man used to put kus-kus
(poppy) in the tea. And believe it or not, the taxiwallahs who were
running the taxi, they used to go there and take their tea always,
otherwise they were not happy with their tea. Then one by one, all the
cafes started kus-kus tea, we had it here at Kyani, finally the
Municipality came to know about it and they stopped it. It is
prohibited. The Municipality will take your license and you have to go
behind the bar if you tried that now. When Britishers were here, they
were foreigners, we Iranis were also foreigners, we got friendly
treatment when we went to the government departments; they knew that we
were new here, we were also foreigners, so they said “you have to stop
putting that in the tea”, and we did.
Image: Kyani & Co, 2007
In the past, people from offices, from Fountain, from Colaba, they used to come to Dhobi Talao, because there were two big shops selling confectionary – Bastani and Kyani - across the road from each other. Now there is only Kyani, so they go wherever they like to buy their requirements. Bastani closing has affected our business, you see. The nature of the business at Bastani was the same as Kyani. When it was there it was better. The movement of the people is now restricted. When Bastani was still there lots of people used to come from outside – they would maybe buy their sweets at one place, and just walk across the road and have their tea at the other.
Image: Bastani, Dhobi Talao, ca 1980
Kyani is now 103 years old, we are supposed to be the oldest Irani café still operating. We had to make my sons Farookh and Farad partners in the business; I am old now, any moment I may leave to go.
FROM an interview with Aflatoon Shokriye, Dhobi Talao, Mumbai, April 2007.
*Bombay to sonapur hai - Bombay is the city of gold.
==========================================================================
The death of an eatery
Published: Friday, May 2, 2008, 23:30 IST
By Javed Gaya | |
| |
Brabourne Restaurant -- for a wake to celebrate the end of this gem of a restaurant run by the most erudite of restaurateurs, Rashid Irani, film critic and buff extraordinaire who led the most incongruous existence as part-beer bar owner and part-writer."
===========================================================================
glad to see this sign up some time later!
The interior of the shop has always been rather functional and plain.
At the entrance is the busy office where half the extended family of the owners seem to hang out.
If you were to go in the morning you'd see a host of blue liveried Parsi Dairy Farm milkmen milling around waiting to get their milk churns filled before setting off to deliver it throughout the city. Parsi Dairy Milk is still recognised as a guaranteed quality product and commands a premium price.
Call me prejudiced, or perhaps it's because I was brought up on them, but I think Parsi Dairy Farm "pendas" are the best you can find - mawa, kesari and barela varieties. You can't beat a great penda/peda, need I say more?
brabourne
Lagan nu Custard. Nice, but not optimum.
Here's a look at some pages of the menu -
The Multicultural, er, Fusion Cuisine and the Daily Specials -
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The Wayside Inn: Where Dr Ambedkar wrote out the Indian constitution
way side in n converted to chinese restaurant
