Monday, June 17, 2024

‘Please, sir, I want some more’=[Author-publisher Meher Marfatia writes fortnightly on everything that makes her love Mumbai and adore Bombay.]

 

A typical day of research for Meher Marfatia for the Once Upon A City fortnightly column in Sunday Mid-day involves legwork through a designated neighbourhood, making notes on-the-fly and working closely with the photographers. Pic/ Atul Kamble💖

       From Bombay with love

Updated on: 23 May,2022 08:34 AM IST  |  Mumbai
Meher Marfatia |

From personal photos and vintage vignettes to food and poetry, the surprise gifts this column brings remain warm and varied

From Bombay with love

Gandhiji’s disciple Manuben showing his hand-stitched slippers to Nehru and Vijaya Lakshmi Pandit

Meher MarfatiaMy head swirled in a floral haze from the response to last fortnight’s piece on summer flowers about to fall soon to impending rain. The prettiest visuals of readers’ favourite blossoms, besides those already printed on these pages, flooded my phone and mailbox. Treated to the sight of trees blooming outside their windows, I delightedly identified clusters of orange gulmohar, violet jacaranda and crepe myrtle—the glorious purplish Pride of India. 


Specific examples offered included the Burmese pink cassia outside PVM Gymkhana. Another told the tale of a copper pod behind the Doongerwadi (Towers of Silence) gate at Kemp’s Corner—sprouting steadily luxuriant since it was planted in the 1970s by a sukharwala faithfully watering it as he stood there selling sandalwood every day.  


Young Kamal Dotiwalla requesting Nehru’s autograph in 1963Young Kamal Dotiwalla requesting Nehru’s autograph in 1963


The most gratifying reader reactions vitally go beyond mere commendation and congratulations. What they share back is always very welcome. Fresh learning for me is bestowed with quiet grace. Which is both the best compliment as well as complement, validating long hours of research. 

I’m especially blessed with Once Upon a City. It generates energies and synergies that knit close and reach far. Here are some stories behind engaging unpublished photos and other gifts this column has particularly pleasured me with.

Yehudi Menuhin and wife Diana watching a yoga demonstration at Bhulabhai Desai Institute in 1962, with BKS Iyengar seen behind his violinist pupilYehudi Menuhin and wife Diana watching a yoga demonstration at Bhulabhai Desai Institute in 1962, with BKS Iyengar seen behind his violinist pupil

On featuring the Bhulabhai Desai Institute, the mid-20th century crucible of culture at Hasman bungalow on Warden Road, I received a wonderful image from Soonoo Taraporewala. It shows violinist maestro Yehudi Menuhin and his wife Diana appreciating a yoga session by BKS Iyengar’s pupils. “From the 1950s, my parents went to yoga classes held by Guruji Iyengar at Hasman, on the terrace stage where musicians and dancers would teach, and artists like Gaitonde and Ara had studios,” Soonoo wrote in an attached note. “My little brother and I went along every Saturday afternoon. While our parents attended class, we ran around playing. Guruji taught Mehuhin yoga and became internationally renowned. In early 1962, the Menuhins visited Mumbai. He performed a concert at Birla Theatre and watched this class at the institute. Various asanas were demonstrated by students of Guruji, among them his daughter Gita who later became an eminent yoga teacher. In this shot the Menuhins are sitting with Guruji standing behind. My brother and I are on the floor on the extreme right.” 

Another photo has Menuhin accepting a statuette in the compound. “It could have been Krishna or Shiva. I remember him saying, ‘Beautiful, beautiful,’” Soonoo said. The institute was replaced by Akash Ganga building, where the National Centre for the Performing Arts was set up before its theatres were constructed at Nariman Point.

Uttara Parikh modelling a silk saree at the Dior fashion show on the BARC lawns in 1961Uttara Parikh modelling a silk saree at the Dior fashion show on the BARC lawns in 1961

After recently explaining the origin of an equally iconic institution —the birthplace of the Colaba-tipping TIFR was Kenilworth, the Peddar Road home of physicist Homi Bhabha’s aunt—Uttara Parikh sent me a striking picture. In her Government Law College days, she was selected to stylishly sashay down a ramp erected on TIFR’s open seaside lawn. In 1961, the BARC management permitted this amazing outdoor locale as the venue of an exclusive fashion event partnered with the Parisian house of Dior. 

“Under a half moon on a breezy April evening 62 years ago, ‘The Splendour that is India’ displayed special silks to immense applause from the elite audience,” she recalled. “I was a saree model. The Dior girls wearing the Western Wear Collection were deeply impressed by the colour, pattern and texture of silk and cotton fabrics the Indians wore. Their professionalism and efficiency impressed us.”

AC Patel and wife Khorshed feeding pigeons at the Duomo Cathedral, Milan, 1966AC Patel and wife Khorshed feeding pigeons at the Duomo Cathedral, Milan, 1966

Uttara added a poignant story from when she was manager of the Taj Art Gallery in the mid-1960s before she joined Air India. “Mr Bhabha was an art connoisseur and collector for BARC which, along with Air India, was among the first corporate art collectors. As he was also an artist, his pencil drawings are in the Air India Collection. A regular at the Taj gallery, Mr Bhabha attended nearly every weekly exhibition. In January 1966, he asked when a certain artist would be exhibiting. I told him it was just two weeks after. ‘Good, I’m going to Geneva tonight but will be back in a few days. See you then,’ he said. Tragically, that was not to be. His flight that night crashed. I was devastated at the news.”

My birth anniversary tribute to Maniba Nanavati prompted Kamal Panthaky to pass on charming childhood photos of herself (then Kamal Dotiwalla) asking Nehru for an autograph when he came to her building, Chaman Chambers near Metro Cinema. “Gandhiji’s ashram disciple Manuben was my neighbour Sanyuktaben Shah’s sister. In 1963, Pandit Nehru and Vijaya Lakshmi Pandit went to their house to admire Gandhiji’s belongings stored in a Godrej senate cupboard. At Nehru’s request, they were donated to Mani Bhavan. My mother insisted on having my hair done at a salon for the occasion, something I hated as a kid. Panditji kept smiling at me. We found out he’d noted that I was the only one who properly thanked him for an autograph. He mentioned this to Manuben, who told my mom!”  
           
Ordinary objects can be keys opening doors to discovery. A yellowed visiting card Kashmira Master Jethwa gave me led to the revelation of two Baroda-born “talkie specialist” brothers helming showbiz at the Opera House before the Gondal royals. Her grand-uncle’s name, AC Patel, crowned the logo of Ideal Pictures, the company whose director he was at Royal Opera House. The legendary Maurice Chevalier’s signature was emblazoned on the reverse of the card. 

Ardeshir (Addie) Cawasji Patel was given Opera House by his older brother Maneck, Kashmira’s maternal grandfather, the champion horse trainer MC Patel. At 17, Maneck had worked as a projectionist before managing a Kalbadevi firm distributing dramatic titles like Exploits of Ellen and Perils of Pauline. Addie was adept at shooting short news reels. Inaugurated by King George V in 1911, the Royal Opera House was with Addie by 1924. Amusingly, Kashmira recalled Raj Kapoor pleading with Addie to convince his father Prithviraj to allow him to join the industry. “Raj would clutch him, begging, ‘Chacha, pitaji ko bolo na, mujhe filmon mein aney do’.” 

Columns can rekindle friendships after decades. When Khetwadi resident Meenaxi Rele went through this series’ 2017 article on Borivli, she recognised Bhupen Dalal with whom she sailed aboard the SS Chusan in 1958. Named after a small Chinese island, that P&O cruise liner was dubbed The Happy Ship. Designed for the British regeneration of the Indian and Far East service, Chusan was considered a long-awaited replacement for RMS Viceroy of India, sunk in World War II. 

“We hadn’t met since the cruise. After 64 years we speak often. COVID did not let us do so, but we should meet personally now,” he said. I enjoyed wonderful conversations with each of the happily reunited friends, plus a generous supply of undhiyu superbly cooked by Rekhaben, Bhupenbhai’s wife. 

The gift of food makes the warmest connect. Because bookshops were lockdown casualties, I got acquainted with people interested in Once Upon a City’s book edition. Instead of buyers staying anonymous, I could put faces to people coming home for signed copies. Weeks after she picked up a stack of my books, Aditi Parikh of Worli unexpectedly delivered delicious homemade til and nolen gur chikki. And how can I forget the divine flavoured phirni Soraya Postel sent kindly even after I bothered her to take me exploring the length and breadth of Club Road, Byculla?    

As touching is the honour to have interviewees allow a look at their hidden talents. As Amrita Chhabria did, after she and her father Srichand narrated the history of the Apollo Bunder-fronting Sea Palace Hotel. The poems she shyly showed me, jotted from the hotel patio, lyrically observed seagulls circling in the crisp morning air. Her verse resonated alternately lacing a sharp worldview with fragile rhythm and romance. 
     
Writers are unsung therapists. With them rests the privilege and power of choosing words to heal or hurt, to inform and reform or sting and stigmatise. Resulting from what we invest time and trouble finding out, the decisions are our responsibility. To be rewarded by a stimulating exchange of ideas and inferences is pure treasure. 

Speaking for those of this tribe who try to respect the trust reposed in us: Thank you gentle reader, for your care to share. 

Author-publisher Meher Marfatia writes fortnightly on everything that makes her love Mumbai and adore Bombay. You can reach her at meher.marfatia@mid-day.com/www.meher marfatia.com

Meher Marfatia: The adventure lies in ...

1 day ago — They gathered together performers, poets, painters and printmakers, from Satyadev Dubey, Shabana Azmi, Govind Nihalani and Pearl Padamsee, to ...

‘Please, sir, I want some more’

Updated on: 16 June,2024 09:37 AM IST  |  Mumbai
Meher Marfatia |

Oliver Street, the little Colaba lane lined with artistically designed buildings, leaves us guessing about its name

‘Please, sir, I want some more’

Nina and Vinod Malkani of Sakina Mansion

Meher MarfatiaMost toddlers have their height measured with colourful charts. Mine marked theirs against tender green Christmas tree boughs. Eager to check how tall they stretched, every few months they stood beside a tiny potted tree—eventually replanted in a park. Each one’s first birthday present from my husband’s aunt, Perin Rustomjee. “They’ll have fun shooting up inches with the baby tree,” she wrote in a note. 


When I went to personally thank her for the thoughtfulness, I fell in love with the Colaba lane she lived on. Oliver Street, lined with half-a-dozen quietly elegant, four-storey buildings of mixed architectural design with striking grilles, windows and embellished reliefs. Most of their names have changed with successive landlords. More, later, on how the road could have got its name. 


Perin Rustomjee warmly welcomed strangers and friends alike, at Naju Manor. Her daughter Nazneen says, “This wasn’t only because she grew a garden blooming with bougainvillea, roses, and pink and white mussaenda. She loved children. She loved nature. Watching her nurture plants with care drew passersby to our gate. 


Dr Harshad Vijaykar and wife Ashwini in Salma ManzilDr Harshad Vijaykar and wife Ashwini in Salma Manzil

Underprivileged kids stopped curiously at the bricked flowerbeds she was always bent over. Asked what she was doing, she gave them a hose pipe to water with. It was constructive fun. Those kids became companions Shiraz and I played with in summer holidays.”

Nazneen’s brother Shiraz adds, “This was a sleepy lane in the mid-’70s. The silence was cut by the sounds of itinerant vendors practising their trade, everyone from the topli paneer hawker to the cotton carder twanging his dhunki instrument. It was pretty and peaceful.” Too peaceful, according to a neighbour remembering the “deathly quiet” that drove her running out to Colaba Causeway for just a bit of bustle. 

Checking in at Bentley’s Hotel, located on two levels of Naju Manor, when he wanders south from his Madh Island digs, photographer Hemant Chaturvedi observes: “Most buildings on Oliver Street pre-date Regal Theatre [1933], making it interesting to see how initial traces of Art Deco had already crept in. Naju Manor has a beautiful Art Deco gate in an otherwise largely modern colonial structure. Plenty of foreigners choose the guesthouses in these old buildings over regular hotels.”

Khursheed Narang at Jer Manzil. Pics/Aditi HaralkarKhursheed Narang at Jer Manzil. Pics/Aditi Haralkar

A fair number of locals also opted for accommodation at these guesthouses. Englishman Arthur Joseph Bentley’s establishment opened soon after Naju Manor, Jer Manzil and Collet House (Sakina Mansion today) were erected between 1930 and 1932. Once spread over bunches of flats in these three buildings, Bentley’s currently operates from two floors of Naju Manor. 

“The concept of ‘residential’ has changed a lot,” says Bentley’s proprietor Homi Kaka. “Booked monthly or yearly, guesthouse accommodation, comprising two rooms with a kitchen, was quite commonly used as a temporary home by some customers.” Theatre actors Scheherazade and Rohinton Mody lived from the ’70s to the ’90s in such a space of the hotel in Naju Manor, where their mentor Adi Marzban and his wife Silla would drop in, especially for Sunday lunch.

Jer Manzil, the gorgeously Georgian building facing Naju Manor, housed another pair of floors for Bentley’s. “In the pre-Partition years, the buildings on this street were owned by Parsis. My Karachi-born father, Noshir Dinshaw Sidhva, came to Jer Manzil around 1945. His uncle, Nadirshaw Sidhva, and Nadirshaw’s son, Minoo, the original Port Trust tenants, built it in 1930,” says Khursheed Narang, as she takes me through the compound. We gaze up to admire exquisite stained-glass panels on first and second-floor balconies glinting in shafts of fierce sun. A visionary who took Grindwell Norton Limited soaring as India’s leading manufacturer of abrasives and silicon carbide, Noshir Sidhva steered the company (co-founded by his uncle PH Sidhwa) for decades as vice-chairman and managing director. “Resident families like ours were issued a pass from the Port Trust to enter its garden behind Jer Manzil,” Narang adds. 

Shiraz Rustomjee on the steps of Naju Manor with his dogs Rosie and Grey; (right) Adi Marzban’s 1970s photo of his wife Silla (right) with actress Scheherazade Mody in Naju ManorShiraz Rustomjee on the steps of Naju Manor with his dogs Rosie and Grey; (right) Adi Marzban’s 1970s photo of his wife Silla (right) with actress Scheherazade Mody in Naju Manor

Sharing a wall with Jer Manzil and adorned with delightful swathes of hybrid architectural highlights on the facade, Sakina Mansion was once Collet House. It was constructed in 1932 by lawyer Pestonji Paruk, whose books, The Indian Succession Act and The Indian Arbitration Act, became classic texts. Collet was the name of the firm he earlier worked at, before joining Mulla & Mulla. 

Paruk’s granddaughter, veteran journalist and social activist Meher Pestonji, hosted sparkling soirees on her fourth-floor terrace. They gathered together performers, poets, painters and printmakers, from Satyadev Dubey, Shabana Azmi, Govind Nihalani and Pearl Padamsee, to Imtiaz Dharker, Nissim Ezekiel and Jeet Thayil, to Akbar Padamsee and Bharati Kapadia. Besides the stimulating buzz at the alfresco adda, Pestonji kept paying guests from the writing world. They included Dilip Thakore, founder editor of Business World and Business India magazines, Hutokshi Doctor and Geeta Vasudevan. 

Her apartment was never a hub for the cognoscenti alone. It often doubled as a safe haven for victims of injustice or violence such as the riot-scarred refugees of 1992-93. She recounts sadly that most neighbours and friends were unwilling to help her bring them home to shelter from affected areas, mainly Dharavi and Govandi.  

On a cheerier note, she says, “Growing up on this road, I was forever up to madness with my friends, Lesley, Shireen and Niti. We dressed in crazy disguises, went house to house selling craft items we created for causes we supported. And we tore away on cycles to Navy Nagar, then known as Duxbury. Swinging on trees in the BPT garden next door, a branch broke off. The angry maali went to all four homes with the severed branch to complain to each set of parents.”

In their cosy second-floor apartment in Sakina Mansion, Nina and Vinod Malkani point to a Buddha statue received from Meher Pestonji as a goodbye gift when she moved to Bandra. Malkani’s father came here in 1962. Badminton champion Frene Talyarkhan lived below them, where the Tambawala family does now. On the ground floor was tuition teacher Tehmi Kothavala, whose son-in-law Jimmy Guzdar was a sub-broker associated with the Malkanis’ firm, Jagvin Investments. “Theirs was the home we most frequented—kind Aunty Tehmi and Uncle Polly invited us for delicious Parsi dinners,” says Vinod.   

A slant across, Salma Manzil was Lalchand Building, which was first called Nakra House. Vinod’s brother Jagdish remembers maverick poet-copywriters Kersy Katrak and Arun Kolatkar pace in and out of this first of three office addresses for MCM (Mass Communication and Marketing), Katrak’s agency which turned around Indian advertising forever. What Jagdish recollects more clearly is: “The road was a honeypot, with exceptionally attractive young ladies everywhere. Boys played hand-ball and French cricket, batting in any direction to get a glimpse of girls like the three daughters of the Coates in Salma Manzil, the sisters Christine and Julia in Sakina Mansion. They all left for England eventually.” 

From 1930, when these buildings rose, till about the 1980s, the lane was predominantly occupied by Parsis, Bohri Muslims, Englishmen, Anglo Indians and Jews. The Salma Manzil home of hospitable Moses Sultoon, Chairman of the Sassoon Trusts, saw him engage with a stream of Baghdadi Jew visitors, the actress Nadira from Nagpada among them. He was respected for attending to the concerns of his community with patient attention.

Across the landing from Sultoon’s one-time residence, I meet a Pathare Prabhu family with three generations of doctors. Between sips of cooling panna which his wife Ashwini whips up on the scorcher of a May morning, I listen to Dr Harshad Vijaykar, a dentist, narrate his story. His father, general physician, Dr Narayan Vijaykar, and gynaecologist mother, Dr Nalini Vijaykar, came to Salma Manzil in 1952, when it was called Nakra House. “They were both very well-known doctors in Girgaum. My mother had a clinic there as well as one in Colaba. Our son Ameya is a GP and daughter Apurva is a dentist working with me. They carry on the medical legacy. We have other examples of continuity. This baakda, the wooden bench we are sitting on, which is over 80 years old, is from my clinic. Well-preserved furniture is a matter of pride.”            

Though probably the road’s oldest residents, even the Vijaykars leave unanswered the question we must circle back to. Who was the Oliver gracing the street signboard? There is no reference to him in Samuel Sheppard’s book, Bombay Place Name and Street Names. Old maps assign varied ideas. A basin at the location, called Oliver’s Folly, seems to have held a coal depot and an 1866 illustration does show coal sheds. An 1887 map indicates a BB&CI Railway wharf at the spot. Conferring with Bombayphiles like Vinayak Talwar and Deepak Rao leaves us in a swirl of possibilities and debatable initials. BPT: might Oliver have been an officer of the Port Trust whose land is marked by this grid of leafy lanes? BIT: Was he from the Bombay Improvement Trust? BB&CI: Or perhaps the Railways? 
    
We hope to have some more light thrown on the elusive Oliver. Much like the (as yet unknown) gent’s famed Dickensian namesake asked—albeit in a completely different context—I request better-informed readers, “Please, sir, I want some more.”

Author-publisher Meher Marfatia writes fortnightly on everything that makes her love Mumbai and adore Bombay. You can reach her at meher.marfatia@mid-day.com/www.meher marfatia.com

Meher Marfatia - Chai for Cancer