Monday, February 23, 2009

,CHRISTIAN PRIEST IN AKBAR'S MOGUL COURT 1583 Rudolph aqua viva



































 MOGUL AKBAR'S COURT
                                                              AQUAVIVA OF SALSETTE.
A Portrait of Rodolfo Aquaviva

A PORTRAIT OF RODOLFO AQUAVIVA

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


. In the year  1583, or about the time

 when Mary Queen of Scots lay a prisoner in Eotheringay, five Jesuit priests were murdered at a place called Coucolim, in the Salsette of Goa.

One of them was Rudolph Aquaviva, known in after times as " Akbar's Christian."

The reader will note that there are two Salsettes, the one near Bombay, sometimes called the Salsette of Bassein, and the other the Salsette of Goa, which was the scene of the catastrophe to be narrated.

Aquaviva was a son of the Duke of Atri, a town five miles from the Adriatic and about sixty miles south of Ancona.

The family of the Emperor Hadrian hailed from this quarter, and the guide-books tell us that the town is situated on the summit of a hill, from which is obtained a splendid view of the surrounding country, with the open sea beyond.

The name Aquaviva (" living water ") is said to have been originally derived from the streams which gush down the mountains and which add so much to the beauty of the landscape.

The fortunes of the Atri family seemed to culminate when two of Rodolph's brothers became cardinals, and his uncle, Claude Aquaviva, was chosen the fifth general of the Jesuits.

This last event took place in 1583, and Claude Aquaviva held that great office for a period of thirty-four years, until his death.

D'Alembert says that of all men, during two hundred years, Claude Aquaviva did more than any other to enhance the position and greatness of the Order of Jesus

. The Atri family became extinct in 1760.

The salient points in the life of Rodolph Aquaviva  are that he was born in 1550
, joined the Order of Jesus in 1568,
and set sail for Goa in 1578
that he remained tliree years at Akbar's Court
that he returned to Goa in 1583 ;.
When he left Rome in the end of 1577,
in taking leave of Gregory XIII., the Pope observed to him that he would have liked to accompany him,
just as Dr. Wilson exclaimed, when bidding adieu for the last time to Dr. Livingstone, " Had I been ten years younger I would have gone with you to the sources of the Nile."

Travelling was slow in those days.

To Leghorn by sea, then to Genoa — wrecked on the voyage — thence to Lisbon, his mile-stones on the way being Carthagena, Murcea, and Toledo. The journey from Rome to Lisbon took him two months.

On March 24th, 1578

, he put himself on board the Santo Gregoiro. This vessel carried 500 passengers and five priests,

and touched at the Cape. After leaving Mozambique her deck was littered with Kaffirs, purchased there.

Religious instruction was Aquaviva's ruling passion, and he had ample opportunity for its exercise during the voyage.

He arrived in Goa on September 13th, 1578,

after nearly a six months' passage. He remained in Goa until November 17th, 1579,

Their journey thither was full of dangers.
The sea was swarming with pirates,
the land with dacoits.
 that when Akbar sent to Goa for some Christians to expound their law, he and two other padres were deputed to hig Court at Fatepur Sikri in 1580 ;
To Damaun and Surat he went by sea, for he, like Linschotten, does not mention Bombay, which evidently had not then scratched its name on Aquaviva's map.

At Surat he joined a caravan, via Indore to Sikri,

seven days before reaching which a cloud of dust announced the arrival of a grand corps, mounted on horses, camels and elephants, which had been sent by Akbar to welcome his guests.

He arrived at Sikri February 27th, 1580, having taken more than three months on the journey from Goa

. He had been forty-three days en route from Surat to Sikri.
It is matter of history beyond all doubt that Akbar gave to the fathers a most hearty welcome, and, short of becoming a Christian himself, did everything he could to make their stay in Fatepur Sikri agreeable.

Was it not a great thing to eat the bread and drink the water — Ganges water — of the Great Mogul ? Doubtless they were pleased with this — who would not be so ? It is human nature.

However, it was not all plain sailing. There was a fly in the amber. Akbar had a long arm that reached from Ahmedabad to Afghanistan, but even he could not be everywhere at the same time. So when he uttered, " I'm off to the wars again," the countenances of his visitors fell, for when he was away the lick-spittles who had salaamed them down to the ground, and who dwelt in the precincts of the palace, reviled the Christian dogs. The children also vented their doggerel — " Nasarani Kelb i ani," 

. Akbar gave permission to his people to embrace Christianity, but he did not wish to proclaim this officially.

There were reasons for this. " If I did this I should be no longer Akbar."

So he might have ruminated. There was a power behind the throne greater than the throne itself. Had this not been so, Akbar might have been the Constantine of Asia.

Aquaviva was not a foolish man, and, if he hoped at all, did not hope overmuch. As early as September 28th, 1580, he wrote these Words, They are letters of fire and proclaim him quite the reverse of Noer's estimate in his Akbar, where he terms Aquaviva " a visionary." His words are these, written six months only after his arrival in Sikri : — " The conversion of the King is very uncertain."

These are not the words of a visionary. The conferences at the Ibadat-khana were attended by Aquaviva, who, according to the testimony of Akbar himself, was agile enough to baffle, nay even to demolish, the arguments of his skilful opponents, Moslem and Hindu.

Which is the true religion ?

Oh, Akbar, find out that if you can, and in the end make a god of thyself, to be worshipped and cast aside as the veriest scum. I have no doubt that long ere this Akbar had his face under control. Under those shaggy eyebrows of his was a religion altogether unexplored by the outside world.

So, when this monk, pale of face, and spent with frequent prayer and fasting, narrated that a child was born in Bethlehem in a stable, and lay in a manger, and that this child was the Son of God, his coun- tenance remained immobile and impassive before the great mystery.

He did not wear his heart on his embroidered sleeve for the ulemas to peck at.

He retired, and in some dim recess of the Palace tried his alchemy on all religions, to weld, if he could, or amalgamate them into one whole,

which should be the creation of his genius. Futile enough and pinchbeck at the best. The reader may wish to know of some of the acts of Aqua- viva at Sikri and Agra.

Kinglake, in Eoihen, says : " The Oriental is not a contriving animal."

So Aquaviva may be credited with some share of the philanthropic enterprises in Sikri and Agra in Akbar's time

. His refusal to accompany Akbar to a sati may have influenced that great man in his endeavours to put a stop to the rite.

He built at Agra what may be regarded as the first Christian Church in India,
Hither came Akbar alone, where he offered prayers and knelt in the fashion of Christians. When Akbar offered him a khilat of many thousand crowns, he politely declined it as contrary to his vow of poverty.

old christian art work for Akbars christian wife

Was he the founder of Medical Missions ? He built a hospital, because " heathen and Moslem in many places are disposed to the acceptance of the Christian religion by the sight of a work of mercy."

Such is the contemporary reason for the building. If Aquaviva was the apostle of water-drinking he would not belie his name.

 Sunehra Makann - is the palace of Akbar’s Christian wife, Mariam-Uz-Zamani. This two-storeyed building is richly adorned by gold murals in Persian style. The beams have inscriptions of verses by Akbar’s brother, Faizi.

It might be worth while examining what part, if any, he took in the temperance movement, when Akbar opened a shop in Sikri " where wine was to be sold at a fixed price and only for medicinal purposes."

From all we know he may have been the Father Mathew of those besotted times. If so, Akbar would join heart and hand with him in this movement, from the mortal dread he had of that curse which eventually descended on his family and tore away from him two of his children by delirium tremens.

The effigy of the third, Jehangier, as a royal drinker, cup in hand, is preserved on the coins of the period.

In 1582 Murad was ten and Jehangier fourteen years of age.


We know that Jehangier's apartments were within earshot of Aquaviva's, for the boy, hearing strange noises proceeding from his room, crept unobserved, and witnessed with horror the spectacle of flagellation,

Akbar gently detained Aquaviva a year after the other padres left.

I dare say that it was with a heavy heart that Aquaviva set out for Goa, and as the last view of Agra disap- peared from his vision I doubt not he heaved a sigh.

Did he ever dream of converting Akbar?

I wot not. But if he did, no more noble sentiment could animate the human breast, and it would have been a colossal capture for Christendom, before which the triumphs of Loyola and Xavier might well appear insignificant.

To see tliese three years apparently wasted, to see such a magnificent dream like some superb porcelain vase shattered to pieces, none of us, even the straitest Presbyterian, can refuse him sympathy, and that homage which is always the meed of heroism in the hour of disappointment.

In any case his hour of agony was brief, and I gather from his words that some pre- venient grace came to his aid, and showed him a loftier ideal (to wit, his own martyrdom) than even the conversion of Akbar.

He believed that it had been registered in heaven, that he on earth, by suffering and death, in the footsteps of his Divine Master, should awake to immortality.

And so it came to pass that afcer three years with Akbar, years of sickness of heart, and not without sickness of body, Aquaviva came back to Goa.

We can well believe that he still looked on that palm-fringed isle as the goal of all his aspirations, and that he still trod its white and sandy shore believing that God would work out his destiny, to the ultimate good of man, by giving him his dearest wish — the martyr's crown.

He reached Goa from Agra on May, 1583.

and finally, in that year, when on a missionary tour in Salsette of Goa, he and four others were attacked and brutally murdered by the pagans at a place called Coucolim


The circum- stances which led up to the catastrophe at Coucolim were deplorable.

There were Aquaviva and four young priests, none of them over thirty-five years of age, engaged in the work of planting crosses, and places of Christian worship.

One of their party had killed a cow and polluted a Hindu temple with its blood.

On approaching the village of Coucolim they found the natives in a ferment, wild and exasperated with this untoward occurrence.

 That mischief was brewing against the missionaries there seemed little doubt, for, on ap proaching the gate, a naked yogi rushed out with wild gesticu- lations and contortions, and made it all too evident that the lives of the party were in imminent danger.

However, after his disappen ranee, a headman came out and reported that, though the village was divided, a welcome would be given them, which, in a measure, lulled their suspicions.

He was a traitor. Small time elapsed, a calm before the storm, when the sorcerer again made his appearance with dishevelled hair, and cast sand and dirt in the air in his frenzy and paroxysm, as is usual in the East on such occasions

. He was followed by a wild and furious multitude armed with spears, scimitars, clubs and hatchets, and bow and arrow also (very much used then ; an ancient picture represents Aquaviva with an arrow in his breast).

They soon made short work of the strangers and literally hacked them to pieces, casting their dishonoured remains into a deep well.



In 1893 he was canonized by the Pope, to the great joy of all his admirers throughout the Roman Catholic world.
The same fate was meted out to a multitude of Christian men and women at Cawnpore,

and in both cases a monumental memorial was placed on the spot.

Though ten generations intervened between the two massacres, it may be said that in death these martyrs are not divided. All that a man hath will he give for his life,

as we are now (1897) seeing every day

in this season of plague and famine

. Not so, thought Aquaviva. Thrice he could have saved himself. " Fly ! " said an Indian.

He spurned the suggestion. " Take this musket," said Gonzalo.

"lam not sent to kill, but to save alive," was the reply, and when the circle of death was gathering round him, a native Christian offered him his horse,

but all in vain. He did not seek death, but met it with, " Into Thy hands I commend my spirit."

At this supreme moment Divine grace came to his aid and showed him a loftier ideal than even the conversion of Akbar. And so, with steady gait and un- faltering tongue, he found himself on the borderland, face to face with his destiny at Coucolim — not craven or despairing, but full of Divine hope, radiant if you will, at the joyful issue out of all his troubles.

The event took place on July 25th, 1583

. I gather from the narrative that it was no surprise to Aquaviva, and that his hour of agony was short. Agony ! Yes, as far as flesh and blood had the making of it ; of ecstasy rather, in following in the steps of his Divine Master. Hints are dropped here and there in his letters and conversations from his earliest years that some measure of grace, vouchsafed on rare occasions to the favourites of God (such was then Presbyterian and Papal belief), had been granted to him, so that the blow when it came was not unexpected.

Goa, we may remind our readers, was then in the acme of its glory, though the Church of Bom Jesus was not yet built.

It was the Goa of Linschotten's time (1583), and her people were a proud, licentious race, quick to resent an injury and to punish the doers of it.

What the vengeance was I do not know, or how it was executed, for on this point history is silent. I gather from the following facts, and I exclude the miraculous, that it was short, sharp and decisive.

" In retaliation for these murders the Viceroy sent Yanez de Figueyrodo, the commander of Eachol, to punish the people of Salsette, which he effected in a most ruthless manner. He made a promiscuous slaughter of the inhabitants, destroyed their dwellings, and levelled to the ground every temple in the neighbourhood. Having discovered the leaders, amongst those who had killed the Friars, he made such horrible examples of them that many of the natives fled in terror from the island. After this, Figueyrodo erected a number of new churches and set up crosses on the summits of all the hills around."

. Two years after the event, a little chapel, under the name of Notre Dame des Martyrs, was built over the well, and a monu- mental cross adjacent to it. Within one year after the martyr- dom, 1,500 pagans of Salsette were baptised.

In '1586-87 five villages requested baptism. During the celebration of mass at Coucolim, a troop of zemindars prostrated themselves before the altar.

Salsette counted in, 35,508 converts.

Verily, in this instance, the blood of the martyrs was the seed of the Church, though it may have come roughly about. Many legends have gathered round the martyrs of Salsette. . Ex uno disce omnes. One of the priests had made his escape, and had totally disappeared when the pagans let a bloodhound out ofcthe leash after him. It tracked the fugitive to his doom. Tlie owner of that dog came to no good, and appropriately died a howliDg maniac.

In the same manner, the descend- ants of the man who pushed the drowning women under the Sol way have been pointed out web-footed, and crawling crab-like on the ground.

The idea that judgment, following in the wake of crime, should be accompanied by some of its con- comitant features stretches, you see, from the Balla Ghaut to the Blednoch. The one thing Aquaviva did not bring away with him from Sikri was the doctrine of toleration — had he done so it might have saved his life.

The Ibadat-khana was not the only place where Akbar exhibited toleration;

he put it in practice throughout his immense dominions.

His Minister, Todar Mall, was a Hindu;

he adopted the Parsee Calendar;

he put his son Murad under a Christian tutor.

Had Aquaviva become the apostle of toleration, and carried the authorities with him, he might have saved the Portuguese dominion in Asia.

This was not to be. No doubt the methods of the Church seem to us hard and unintelligible ; but they were the methods of the age.

The belief was almost universal that you could compel men by force and fear to worship God as you dictated. Ancient faiths had been rooted out, and nations compelled to accept new beliefs, by what the Bible emphatically calls " the power of the sword." It seems so strange.

Albuquerque versus the Moslem was the incarnation of this doctrine

. It was not cofined to Spanish or Portuguese;

Scotland burned Patrick Hamilton.

England, by turns, Romanist or Protestant, showed the same intolerant spirit.

Whoever had the upper hand showed no mercy.

Church or stake — there's your choice.

Hence you read on Goa tombstones of one,

" Captain of this fortress, who destroyed the pagodas of these territories, 1577."

Hence, the killing of the sacred cow, and the pollution of the holy places of the Hindus with its entrails. These were among the meritorious works of the time. From all such deeds I am bound to say, as far as I know the records, that Aquaviva was totally free. The slaughter of the cow, and the desecration of a holy place with its blood was indefensible,

and I am glad Aquaviva had no hand in it. Would Loyola have done it ? Or Xavier ? I trow not.

A greater than he had said : " Behold, I send you forth as sheep among wolves. Be ye therefore wise as serpents and harmless as doves."

Pierre Berna that morning had evidently not read with profit these words of the Great Commission, and had founded his act upon the Commentaries of Albuquerque, and not on the words of Jesus.

That Bombay did not burn mosques or pagodas was owing to her being one hundred years nearer our time in the march of civilisation ;

and that the men here who had the grasp of affairs at the time, notably Aungier, having imbibed in England the principle of free inquiry and private judgment,

. upheld that principle in the interest of humanity, and put an end to all interference with religious beliefs,

" as long as they did not sap the foundation of morality or involve a violation of the eternal and immutable Laws of Eight." When the question of the beatification of Rodolph came before his uncle, the General of the Jesuits, he felt that he was too near a relation to give an impartial decision. The great Bellarmine was appealed to, and affirmed that the martyrs of Salsette were worthy of canonisation. At a congregation held in 1741, under Benedict XLV., to settle this business. Cardinal Bellaga uttered a bon mot, or something like it. " If two miracles," said he, "are necessary for beatification, we have already one in the unanimous vote of so numerous a body of Cardinals." This, however, was not enough, for the matter trailed its weary length over another century and a half, until Pope Leo XIII. enrolled him among the Saints. By this time the outside world, except his co-religionists, had completely for- gotten, after the lapse of three centuries, that there was an Aquaviva of Salsette.

I dare say the impression left by this holy man on Akbar was never effaced. He called him an angel, and so he was, for doing good and hating ill is angel's work.

Akbar wore the image of the Virgin next his heart, if I am not mistaken.

You may still see the remnants of a sketch in fresco portraying the Annunciation on the walls of Sikri.

When the Emperor heard of his death he was overwhelmed with grief: "Would that I had not let him go!" And years after . (it was in 1695), when Jerome Xavier, the nephew of the Apostle, visited Agra, Akbar showed him the Bible, and the picture of the Madonna, which Aquaviva had presented to him, and the Agnus Dei which he wore from his neck.

Is it only a legend or echo of the martyr's labours that Mary Mackany was the Christian wife of Akbar?

And that the last words of Shah Jahan's daughter were, a hundred years later, " Je ne veux sur ma tombe aucun monument. L'herbe modeste recouvrira mieux les restes de I'ephemere Jehanara, la pauvre servante des disciples du Christ, la fille de I'Empereur Shah Jahan " ? -


photo

Jehanara's Tomb



Tomb Of Jehanara
Tomb Of Jehanara.

translation-[I do not want on my gravestone monument no. The grass cover more modest remains of I'ephemere Jehanara, the poor servant of Christ's disciples, the fille of I'Empereur Shah Jahan?]


A Marble Screen
A Marble Screen.
Nothing in India is more pathetic than her burial-place. Having seen the hollowness of royal luxury, she begged, when on her death-bed, that grass and flowers should be her only covering. Her wish has been respected. It is true an alabaster screen now forms a frame-work for her couch of death, but the space thus enclosed is covered merely with green turf. Upon the marble headstone are inscribed these words: "Let no rich canopy adorn my grave. These simple flowers are most appropriate for one who was poor in spirit, though the daughter of Shah Jehan."


The bare facts of Aquaviva's career, his heroism, his devotion, his self-denial and his early and violent death, suffice to constitute an exalted character, and have long attracted and fascinated the attention of that great body of religionists to which he belonged, and Aquaviva's story may still be read with profit by every branch of the Christian Church. He is one of the few Europeans who met and conversed intimately with Akbar, and left a record of the same. Every scrap of his writing, every word of his M'hich has been handed down, his form, his face, his features, his habits, his prayers, his mortifications and his flagellations, are recorded and brought before us. Tradition, legend, and even miracle have gathered round his bones and clothed his august personality, even as the moss clothes the mighty oak, or other monarch of the forest, until the admiration of his panegyrists burst forth into loud acclaim — Aquaviva ! Living Water ! Springing up into ever- lasting life !

Sunday, February 22, 2009

1510:- MALABAR KING ; MALABAR HILL BOMBAY AND ACROSS HARBOR CAM BAY SULTAN RULED-ALBUQUERQUE'S BIOGRAPHY--HOW PORTUGUESE CONQUERED MALABAR HILL AND BOMBAY FROM SAMOODIRI RAJA OF CALICUT ---{WRITES ALBUQUERQUE'S SON}


Before his death he wrote a letter to the king in dignified and affecting terms, vindicating his conduct and claiming for his son the honours and rewards that were justly due to himself. His body was buried at Goa in the Church of our Lady. The king of Portugal was convinced too late of his fidelity, and endeavoured to atone for the ingratitude with which he had treated him by heaping honours upon his natural son Brás de Albuquerque (1500—1580). In 1576, the latter published a selection from his father's papers under the title Commentarios do Grande Affonso d'Alboquerque which had been gathered in 1557.

{Albuquerque, in 4 vols., by his son   --copied from internet}

Western India at the period when the Portuguese broke ground
upon it. Except the names of a few towns which dot the ittoral, and which the Portuguese conquered, the whole land is enveloped in a cloud of mist, through the rifts of which we catch a glimpse of such shadowy forms as Zamorin, Hadalcai,Balagat, Narsinga, Sheikh Ismail, and Cambay.
Yet these names represent the masters of this portion of Asia. Occasion ally we catch a glimpse of hosts of swarthy warriors armed with buckler, spear, and bow, emerging from the passes of the Western Ghauts to the plains below, but of the powers that sent them there we have only the faintest indications.Bijapur had already its citadel, or Arkila, and was bulging out its ground plan of magnificent distances . Mahomed Bigarra  at amid the glories of Ahmedabad or Champanir , and Krishna Deva, greatest of its sovereigns, ruled at Vizyanagar on tlie Tongabudra.

Bombay(May it is called), or what existed of it,stood at the junction of the two empires which had borne
the brunt of war for a century — that is, the land on which her huts were built was the King of Cambay's
(Sultan of Ahmeda bad), and the men who occupied them were his subjects.

Across the harbour all that magnificent scene we now cast our eyes upon from Malabar Hill was the Zamorin's.If we understandthe matter aright,the boundary of these two kingdoms was the Bombay Harbour and the Tanna Creek.All north of this inlet belonged to Cambay ;all south (Goa excepted) to the Zamorin.
We now crave the attention of our readers to the following : —The Commentaries state that the Zamorin offered Chaul (thirty miles from Bombay) to Albuquerque as a site for a fort.In fact, Chaul
PORTUGESE FORT OF CHAUL SOUTH OF BOMBAY (CLICK ON PHOTO TO SEE BIGGER)













gave its name to the south side of our harbour down to the end of the seventeenth century {Bombay Gazetteer).
Maim (Bombay) to Albuquerque for the same purpose. We place our contention before our readers and leave each to settle the question for himself. A few miles here or there in a thousand do not matter much. The facts as they are stated seem to us perfectly conclusive as to the political division of the coast line of Western India in or about 1510.
If we are correct in this,Bombay was Mahomedan And and across the water the Hindoo kingdom of the Zamorin.
There is one fact brought into bold relief by the Commentaries of Albuquerque, and it is this —that the Guzerattees held naval supremacy from the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb and the mouth of the Persian Gulf to Malacca. They were the great carriers all over the Indian Ocean.
The Hindoos are not generally credited with being a maritime people ; but it is expressly said of those
of Goa (1506) "they were a maritime race, and more inured to the hardships of the sea than all other nations, built ships of great burden, and navigated the coasts."
And, again, in regard to Ceylon and the Far East —"The Guzerattees understand the navigation of those parts much more thoroughly than any other nation on account of the great commerce they carry on in these
places.
" We accept these statements as we find them,but there is no getting over the fact that, wherever Albuquerque
engaged pilots on the coasts of Africa, Arabia, or India, they were Moors,and we are driven to the conclusion that the captains who navigated these ships were Arabs of Hindoostan,while the crews may have been lascars or Hindoos.
This much is certain,that on the Asiatic side — say, from Malacca to Calicut, and from Calicut to Jeddah,
the bulk of the overland traffic was carried on by the people of Guzerat all through the Middle Ages,
whence their cargoes were transhipped on Arab buggalows to Cosseir, and thence by caravan to the Nile, which bore them on its flood to Kosetta.
Here follows a strange story of Albuquerque : —" He was a man of the strictest veracity, and so pure in the justice he administered that the Hindoos and Moors, after his death,whenever they received any affront from the Governors of India, used to go to Goa to his tomb and make offerings of choice flowers and oil for his lamp, praying him to do them justice" — so say the Commentaries.
That the Moors placed offerings of flowers and sought justice at the tomb of Albuquerque we do not believe
The Moors were not fools. There was a great deal of human nature in the Moors. You might as soon
expect a Covenanter to worship Claverhouse or a Hollander the Duke of Alva.
The Moors have never worshipped Albuquerque,nor will they ever do so as long as the Black Stone remains at Mecca or pilgrims make the Haj.
If the Moors had bespattered Albuquerque's tomb with mud it would have been much more to their liking.
At Cochin, at Cannanore, at Calicut, at Goa he came down upon them like the destroying angel : everywhere
his course was written in blood. At every port he touched,from Muscat to Malacca, he cut off their ears and noses and let them go.
At Panjim he shut up 150 of them in a mosque and burned them to ashes. At Kishim he gave no quarter, but put men, women, and children to the sword.He sent fifteen blind kings from Ormuz, so that they and
their seed might never have a chance of reigning in these parts for evermore. Some of these ports he could never have reached without the help of Moorish- pilots.
If I remember right, it was a Moorish pilot who conducted him all the way from Africa to India, kidnapped, no doubt.
Another led him to Ormuz, and those waters which no European fleet had ever visited since that of Nearchus.
He picked up a third at Bab-el-Mandeb, to guide his prow through the sinuosities and treacherous reefs of
the Red Sea. Strange, is it not, that these were the very men whose race he had sworn to exterminate. " Here I am," said Luther, " I can do no otherwise. God help me. Amen."
" Albuquerque went straight to his chamber, cast his eyes up to heaven, and besought God to forgive his sins." I wonder whether this sin was among them, but God pity the poor piloT who were forcibly abducted on such an errand and cozened to lay open their maps and plans to the gaze of this great navigator,so that he might plough his way to scenes of guilt and rapine,and the murder of their friends
He rose from his knees with " The Lord is on my side : I will not fear what man can do unto me." These are some of the flowers the Moors might have placed on the tomb of Albuquerque.
You see that Albuquerque hated the Mahomedans with a fierce and implacable hatred.
I am sure he loathed them to such an extent that he wished they had all one neck that he could at once make an end of them.
This feeling was born of the Iberian Peninsula. He detested the Moors in Spain,and as much the Moors out of Spain. This was the pivot upon which his creed revolved, and all else was subordinate to it. And I do not wonder at it, for he must have drank in this hatred with his mother's milk.
The Crusaders were dead, but as long as he was alive there was a great Crusader, a Crusader of no half measures, but one as bloody as Richard, determined to solve that question which had worried Europe for centuries by exterminating the hated race, root and branch.
For this there was nothing he would not do.
He would divert the Nile into the Red Sea and desiccate Egypt He would capture the body of Mahomed at Medina and exchange it for the Holy Sepulchre.
This was the everlasting question that presented itself to his mind, and which he revolved under the weird shadows of the Peak of Aden, by the palm-fringed islands of Goa, as well as at Ormuz, with its visions of Nearchus.
(It was there,I think, that a Moor brought on board a Life of Alexander,written in Persian, bound in crimson velvet, and presented it to Albuquerque.
In the audacity of his schemes he was quite a match for Alexander.)
Here is his solution of the question,
for he had quite made up his mind what he should do to effect this stupendous cowp. He would land 300 horsemen at Yembo, capture the garrisons of Mecca and Medina, and in six weeks disembark with the body of the Prophet before reinforcements could reach his enemies from the grand Soldan of Egypt. He
would search out the Soldan's fleet in the Eed Sea, and if he did not find it he would go on to Suez and burn it — for him a magnificent conception, the beauty of which consists in its simplicity.
But he did not live to carry it out, as he died at the bar of Goa, December 16th, 1515.

Such a deed would   havft changed the face of the world, from Delhi to Vienna, and would have constituted a world-wide revolution.

But one thing he did though he left the other undone.He diverted the commerce of the East from the channels in which it had flowed for a thousand years to the Tagus,from the Adriatic and the Bospliorus.

By blocking up the Gulf at Ormuz and the Red Sea at Aden, and placing an embargo on Calicut and Malacca,he threw the commerce of the East round the Cape to Lisbon.After Albuquerque's time a deep silence fell on the wharves of Venice, The camel caravans ceased to come from Cossier to Cairo.
Indian spices no longer perfumed the painted chambers of Rosetta, and Alexandria was reduced to the white heap of ashes which it remained till the time of Volney,
" God help me " he found graven in Latin on some old Crusader's swords which had found their way to Socotra,and no doubt he girded one of them on himself, as we may see in a picture of this grim and bearded warrior of the North.
And God helped him, or history is belied.Portugal and India were thence to be riveted together until Portugal ceased to respect herself, and India prepared the way for other invaders.
The reader does not now require to ask why Albuquerque courted and coquetted with the Hindoo sovereigns of Western India.It was to compass his own ends, for whoever were his allies they must fight the Mussulman.
This is the key to all his Hindoo alliances, and explains his league with Honore and
Cochin,
by whose assistance he entered Go.a.The biggest Hindoo kingdom in Southern India at this time (it stretched
from sea to sea) was Vizyanagar, so Albuquerque speedily enlisted its sympathy and assistance to make war on Bijapur and the other Mussulman Kings of the Dekhan. Western India was about to change owners, and already in the throes of a new birth, and Vizyanagar was nothing loss ;for Bijapur,Bedur, Nagar, and olconda, Muslim sovereignties of the Dekhan, were already on the war-path,and one of them was to raze her empire to the ground.
The Hindoo dynasties, in fact, were all quaking with a great fear.Not only here, but in the north, the elements were seething and prognosticating mighty revolutions.The sound of Baber's- raids came down the Khyber Pass like the roll of distant thunder.Cabul and Kandahar were at. his feet, and in October 1511 Baber was
proclaimed King of Samarcand, then one of the richest and most populous cities in the world.
Then there was the King of Ormuz.
Here is his portrait, as he sits on his throne, and you may read it along with Milton's Wealth of Ormuz and
of Ind : " He is fifteen years of age, dressed in a petticoat of crimson satin and a cloth girded around him, a golden dagger and a sceptre of gold in his hand, with the head of crystal set in gold.

" Albuquerque built palaces and churches, coined money and abolished Sati, and founded Goa, which has been Portuguese for years, all which redounds to his fame.
He encouraged marriages between the Portuguese and the natives. In 1510 there were 450 Portuguese married to native ladies, daughters of the principal men of the land. His views,we are told, were not shared by everybody, for there were men, even then, who looked ahead and had grave doubts on the wisdom of his policy.
" Many disapproved of his permission to the Portuguese to marry natives, and several leading men even wrote to the King of Portugal on the subject Albuquerque was a man of grim humour.Somebody asked for tribute to the King of Ormuz after his conquest by the Portuguese. Albuquerque sent him a parcel of cannon-balls, and told him that was the only tribute his King paid on account of states under his mastery.
Once when his cash-box was empty a lascar importuned him for his wages. Plucking two hairs from his
beard, "Take these hairs of my beard, and go and put them in pawn.
" At Ormuz he ordered three stone anchors to be taken from the King of Cambay's big ship, the Meri, and
built them into the foundations of a new fort.
His captains sent him a remonstrance, which he put under the portal,henceforth named for ever, "The Doorway of remonstrance."
Some renegades were in the hands of the enemy, who knew full well that if they were given up they would at once be killed. A stipulation was exhorted from him for their lives.Albuquerque signed it. They little knew their man. Once in his power he ordered their right hands and the thumbs of their left hands, and their ears and noses to be cut off, and the hair of their heads and beards torn out.Death would have been preferable. But then, you see, " he kept his word," honourable man.
Not like our Richard, who broke his oath at the siege of Acre (1191), when he hanged the 2,700 Turkish hostages.After his death he was immediately shrouded and clothed in habit of Santiago (St. James), buskin, spurs, sword and belt, on his neck a stole, on his head a velvet cap. " Go to now," says St. James the Apostle (not he of Costello), " and howl ... ye have nourished your hearts as in a day of slaughter.
" Goa was conquered by Albuquerque on November 2oth (St. Catherine's Day), 1510 It was a bloody conquest.
No quarter was given.Men and women and children were put to the sword.This was Albuquerque's order, and the blood of 6,000, young and old, ran into that sea which we see to-day fringed with palm trees.
This was Albuquerque's "day of slaughter," which rises in judgment against him, not forgetting Euy Dias, hanged for visiting a Moorish woman, and which Camoens does not neglect to notice in the Lusiad.
I take it that Albuquerque was a man of an iron will,and had not much of the milk of human kindness about him, and that he was deaf to the wails of the widow and the orphan — he must have made thousands of them. And yet his appearance was prepossessing. His massive beard, even at sixty-three, came down to his waist, his stature was middle size, his nose long.
The Ambassador of Sheikh Ismail was so much struck with the view he had of him that he requested him to allow a full length portrait of him to be taken, so that he might carry it to his master in the Arabian desert. Behold the fine arts of 1510 !
He was reticent to a degree, especially when his captains mutinied, when his King frowned, when the viceroy, Almeida,who preceded him, gave him the cold shoulder, razed his house to the ground, and immured him in the tower of Cannanore.
But when he ascended from the dungeon to the Viceregal throne he again found his tongue. His last words were written to the King of Portugal.
" As for the aftairs of India, they will speak for themselves and for me."
Yes, India can speak for itself,more particularly the Mahomedan portion of it, and  for me
"the verdict in 1893 is somewhat different from, that of 1515.
His friends inscribed on his tomb, " Let him that excels take the precedence."In his particular line I suppose many have excelled him.Alexander at Persepolis, Titus at Jerusalem, Alaric at Rome,or coming nearer home, Nadir Shah at Delhi, or Napoleon

AFONSO DE ALBUQUERKE
Early life
Born in Alhandra in the year of 1453, near Lisbon, Portugal, he was for some time known as The Great, The Caesar of the East, Lion of the Seas and as The Portuguese Mars. Through his father, Gonçalo de Albuquerque, Lord of Vila Verde dos Francos (married to Dona Leonor de Menezes), who held an important position at court, he was connected by remote illegitimate descent with the royal family of Portugal. He was educated in mathematics and classical Latin at the court of Afonso V of Portugal, and served ten years in North Africa, where he acquired military experience. He was present at Afonso V's conquest of Arzila and Tangier in Morocco in 1471. On his return he was appointed estribeiro-mor (chief equerry) to John II. He took part in the expedition against the Turkish invasion of Italy that culminated in a Christian victory in 1481.In 1489 he again served in North Africa.
Expeditions to the East
First Expedition, 1503-1504
In 1503 he set out on his first expedition to the East, which was to be the scene of his future triumphs. In company with his kinsman Francisco he sailed round the Cape of Good Hope to India, and succeeded in establishing the king of Cochin securely on his throne, obtaining in return for this service permission to build a Portuguese fort at Cochin, and thus laying the foundation of his country's empire in the East.
Operations in the Persian Gulf and Malabar, 1504-1508
Albuquerque returned home in July 1504, and was well received by King Manuel I of Portugal, who entrusted him with the command of a squadron of five vessels in the fleet of sixteen which sailed for India in 1506 under Tristão da Cunha. After a series of successful attacks on the Arab cities on the east coast of Africa, Albuquerque separated from Tristão, and sailed with his squadron against the island of Hormuz, in the Persian Gulf, which was then one of the chief centers of commerce in the East. He arrived on September 25, 1507, and soon obtained possession of the island, though he was unable to maintain his position for long. He was responsible for building the Fort of Our Lady of the Conception on Hormoz Island

With his squadron increased by three vessels, he reached the Malabar coast at the end of 1508, and immediately made known the commission he had received from the king empowering him to supersede the governor Dom Francisco de Almeida. The latter, however, refused to recognize Albuquerque's credentials and cast him into prison, from which he was only released, after three months' confinement, on the arrival of the grand-marshal of Portugal with a large fleet, in November 1509. Almeida having returned home, Albuquerque speedily showed the energy and determination of his character. On this date he became the second viceroy of the State of India, a position he would hold until his death
Operations in Goa and Malacca, 1510-1511
Afonso de AlbuquerqueAlbuquerque intended to dominate the Muslim world and control the spices' trading network. An unsuccessful attack upon Calicut (modern Kozhikode) in January 1510, in which the commander-in-chief received a severe wound, was immediately followed by the investment and capture of Goa. Albuquerque, finding himself unable to hold the town on his first occupation, abandoned it in August, to return with the reinforcements in November, when he obtained undisputed possession. In April 1511, he set sail from Goa to Malacca with a force of some 1200 men and seventeen or eighteen ships. He conquered Malacca by August 24, 1511 after a severe struggle throughout July. Albuquerque remained in Malacca until November 1511 preparing its defences against any Malay counterattack. He ordered the slaughter of all the Muslim population in an effort to reduce religious divergence hoping that it would force Hindus and Muslims to convert to Christianity. He also ordered the first Portuguese ships to sail east in search of the 'Spice Islands' of Maluku.
Various operations, 1512-1515
In 1512 he sailed for the coast of Malabar. On the voyage a violent storm arose, Albuquerque's vessel, the Flor De La Mar, which carried the treasure he had amassed in his conquests, was wrecked, and he himself barely escaped with his life.In September of the same year he arrived at Goa, where he quickly suppressed a serious revolt headed by Idalcan, and took such measures for the security and peace of the town that it became the most flourishing of the Portuguese settlements in India. Albuquerque had been for some time under orders from the home government to undertake an expedition to the Red Sea, in order to secure that channel of communication exclusively to Portugal. He accordingly laid siege to Aden in 1513, but was repulsed; and a voyage into the Red Sea, the first ever made by a European fleet, led to no substantial results. In order to destroy the power of Egypt, he is said to have entertained the idea of diverting the course of the Nile River and so rendering the whole country barren. His last warlike undertaking was a second attack upon Ormuz in 1515. The island yielded to him without resistance, and it remained in the possession of the Portuguese until 1622. Perhaps most tellingly, he intended to steal the body of the Prophet Muhammad, and hold it for ransom until all Muslims had left the Holy Land.
China expeditions, 1513
In early 1513, Jorge Álvares—sailing in a mission under Albuquerque—was allowed to land at Lintin Island in the Pearl River Delta of southern China, and soon after Albuquerque sent Rafael Perestrello to southern China to seek out trade relations with the Ming Dynasty of China. In ships from Portuguese Malacca, Rafael sailed to Canton (Guangzhou) in 1513 and again from 1515–1516 to trade with Chinese merchants there. These ventures, along with those of Tomé Pires and Fernão Pires de Andrade, were the first direct European diplomatic and commercial ties to China. However, after the death of the Chinese Zhengde Emperor on April 19, 1521, conservative factions at court seeking to limit eunuch influence rejected the new Portuguese embassy, fought sea battles with the Portuguese around Tuen Mun, and Tomé was forced to write letters to Malacca stating that he and other ambassadors would not be released from prison in China until the Portuguese relinquished their control of Malacca and returned it to the deposed Sultan of Malacca (who was previously a Ming tributary vassal). Nonetheless, Portuguese relations with China became normalized again by the 1540s and in 1557 a permanent Portuguese base at Macau in southern China was established with consent from the Ming court.
Political downfall and last years
Albuquerque Monument on Afonso de Albuquerque Square in Lisbon (1902).

Albuquerque's career had a painful and ignominious close. He had several enemies at the Portuguese court who lost no opportunity of stirring up the jealousy of King Manuel against him, and his own injudicious and arbitrary conduct on several occasions served their end only too well. On his return from Ormuz, at the entrance of the harbour of Goa, he met a vessel from Europe bearing dispatches announcing that he was superseded by his personal enemy Lopo Soares de Albergaria.
 The blow was too much for him and he died at sea on December 16, 1515.

Before his death he wrote a letter to the king in dignified and affecting terms, vindicating his conduct and claiming for his son the honours and rewards that were justly due to himself. His body was buried at Goa in the Church of our Lady.
 The king of Portugal was convinced too late of his fidelity, and endeavoured to atone for the ingratitude with which he had treated him by heaping honours upon his natural son Brás de Albuquerque (1500—1580). In 1576, the latter published a selection from his father's papers under the title Commentarios do Grande Affonso d'Alboquerque which had been gathered in 1557.

An exquisite and expensive variety of mango, that he used to bring on his journeys to India, has been named in his honour, and is today sold throughout the world as Alphonso

[THIS ABOVE STATEMENT THAT MALABAR KING RULED MALABAR HILL AREA CANNOT BE VERIFIED IN HISTORY]

BOMBAY--A MASONIC LEGACY--1858


A MASONIC LEGACY.

A CORRESPONDENT sends US the following extract from the
Masonic Record of Western India of 1867,

in the belief that it
may prove interesting to our Masonic readers : —

It will be remembered by our readers that in February
last we referred to a sum of money supposed to have been
left for Masonic charitable purposes.

The following authentic
documents containing all the information on the subject have
now been placed at our disposal. It is not without great
deliberation on the propriety of publishing the testator's
singular will that we print it, however it should be borne in
mind that the will was dated 1793, Even as an item of
Doctors Commons' lore it would tempt an Editor to give it a
place among his collectanea ; but, as our readers are aware,
reports of property available for Masonic interests will always
crop up so long as there be some foundation in fact. We think
by placing the following papers on record in type, we embalm
therein not only the curiosity of a testator's difficulties, as well
as that we rescue a subject buried in musty archives, to be
available for easy reference whenever the coveted bequest shall
again be the object of inquiry.



Territorial Department, Finance.

To H. D. Cartwright, Esquire,

Provincial Grand Master of Western India.

Sir, — I am directed by the Eight Honourable the Governor
in Council to acknowledge the receipt of your letter, dated the
6th instant, and to forward the accompanying copy of a Keport
by the Accountant-General, No. 85, dated the 8th idem, and of
the documents therewith furnished, as containing all the infor-
' mation on his records respecting the bequest to the Masonic
Fraternity alluded to by you. — I have the honour to be, &c.,

H. Young,
Chief Secretary to Government.
Bombay Castle, May 31st, 1858.


Territorial Department, Finance.

I have the honour to submit, for the consideration of his
Lordship in Council, copies of the undermentioned letters as
containing all the information on my records respecting the
bequest to the Masonic Fraternity alluded to. The course to
be followed for the recovery of the same is stated in Mr.
Standen's letter of the 9th February, 1856.

Letter from Accountant-General to Administrator-General,
No. 1765, dated 5th January, 1856.

Letter from L. Acland, Esq., Solicitor, to Accountant-
General, of same date.

Letter from Administrator-General, to the Accountant-
General, dated 9th February, 1856.

The amount of the estate standing under the head of John
McClure is as follows : —

4 per cent, notes in Sicca . . Es. 40,900
4 per cent. Company's . . „ 7,200
Cash „ 263 9 1

(Signed) E. E. Elliot, Accountant-General.
Bombay, Accountant-General's Office, May 8th, 1858.


Territorial Department, Finance.

Estate of John McClure.

To J. H. Standen, Esquire, Administrator-General.

Sir, — I have the honour to transfer to you the accompany-
ing documents relative to a claim on behalf of an alleged
descendant of John McClure, to his Estate, which has been
transferred to Government under the provisions of Act No. VIII
of 1855, and to request that you will favour me with your
opinion thereon. — I have the honour to be, etc.

(Signed) E. E. Elliot, Accountant-General.

Bombay, Accountant-General's Office, January 5th, 1856.





Bombay, January 5th, 1856.

^, — I am instructed by Mr. Donald McClure, of Glenelg,
in the county of Inverness, to apply to you for the funds lately
transferred to you by the Administrator-General as the estate
of the late John McClure.

The following are the circumstances on which ray client
rests his claim to the estate in question.

John McClure by his will, dated February 12th, 1793,
appointed Messrs. Wedgborough, White, Speak, and Eichardson,
and the Grand Master of the Lodge No. 1 in Bombay to be his
executors, and the will then states as follows : —

" Item having all my slaves and property with me I reckon
them the property of my female companion at my decease, but
as I am in a land of liberty I don't consider them as slaves but
servants.

" Item my ready money I divide into four equal parts as
follows : —

"1. To an orphan named William Boss.

" 2. To one ditto named James Mallick.

" 3. To a female named Elizabeth Fennel, whom should I
have children by her they will share equally with the other
legatees and herself

" 4 To a child named Margaret by a Malabar other this child
is to be allowed interest of half my fortune for her education
four years the other half to accumulate for the benefit of the
legatees should any of the legatees die that share shall descend
to the others so as the longest life take the whole and at the
death of all the above legatees the whole shall descend to
Bombay Lodge No. 1 for the benefit of Master Masons' illegiti-
mate children and upon the accounts of my death one-tenth of
my fortune shall be allotted for that purpose.

"I have remitted home £500 for the benefit of my mother
for her natural life.

" Three of the foregoing legatees are with me, and I entrust
the education of the other to my Executors and Mr. Samuel
Speak who has the care of him for the present."


The Testator made a codicil to his will, dated February
10th, 1795, which was as follows : —

" Sir, — By this deed I appoint you my joint Executor with
Mr. John Wedgborough, in case of any accident to me you will
act for the benefit of my legatees mentioned in my former will
and power including my only son George, born at Palm Islands
to share a moiety of my effects whatever they are.

" You will make a demand on the resident of Boure for the
contents of the enclosed Bond and recover what is due to me
from the new Albion Company."

The above was addressed to Thomas Watkin Court. The
Testator died in 1796, and the will was proved by all the
Executors except the Grand Master of Lodge No. 1 Bombay.
The Codicil was proved at Calcutta by Thomas Watkin Court.
The Executors retained the estate in their hands until the death
of the survivor which happened in 1831, when administration
was taken by the Ecclesiastical Registrar of the Supreme Court,
who transferred the property to the Administrator-General,
who transferred it to you under the provisions of the recent
Act No. VIII. of 1855 regulating the disposition of funds in
the hands of the Administrator-General.

From enquiries made of the Grand Lodges of England and
Scotland it appears there was no Lodge No. 1 in Bombay in
1793 or in 1796, and if there had been such a Lodge the Master
could not have been a Grand Master.

No payments have been made from this since it came into
the hands of the Ecclesiastical Registrar in 1831, nor, so far as
I know, has any claim been made for the fund.

Donald McClure, my client, is the grandson of a brother of
the said John McClure, and as his next of kin has obtained
letters of administration de bonis non with the will and codicil
of John McClure annexed, to be granted to him by the Pre-
rogative Court of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and he claims
these funds on the ground that the residuary bequest for the
benefit of Master Masons' illegitimate children is void on the
grounds of immorality and uncertainty. You will observe that
clause 4 of the will makes no disposition of the moiety of the
property the interest of which is directed to be applied for the
education of the Testator's daughter during a period of four years,

the remaining part of the clause referring exclusively to the
other moiety.

i apprehend that my client's title to receive this money is
sufficiently made out by the letters of administration de bonis
71071 which have been granted to him, but for your further
satisfaction I send herewith copies of declarations made by
Angus Bruce, Norman McLeod, Malcolm McCrae, Donald
McClure, and Malcolm Macrae, also of a certificate signed by
the Eeverend John Macrae, a list of the descendants of Duncan
Eoy McClure, and of a declaration made by my client, which
documents make out my client's claim as next of kin. The
originals are with me, and I shall be happy to produce them for
your inspection, together with the letters of administration de
bonis non, with the will and codicil of John McClure annexed,
letters of administration to the estate of Donald McClure and
Malcolm McClure, the father and grandfather of my client, and
a Power of Attorney from my client authorising me to receive
the Estate in question.

I am, etc.,

(Signed) Lawford Acland.
To the Accountant-Gene

Estate of John McClure, deceased.

To the Accountant-General, Bombay.

Sir,— With reference to your letter No. 1765 of 1855-56,
requesting my opinion as to a claim to the Estate of John
McClure put forward on the part of certain parties alleging
themselves to be his next of kin, I have the honour to inform
you that I think the case is one for the decision of the Supreme
Court. I find that many other claims have been made to
the Estate at different times and by a great variety of parties,
some representing themselves to be next of kin, others to be
descendants of legatees under the will. For us to determine
which, if any of these claimants have right on their side, would
involve, as appears to me, far too grave a responsibility, more-


over the legal difficulties of construction in the will are very-
considerable and such as I think it is for the Supreme Court
alone to decide.

I am therefore of opinion that the claim of Mr. Acland's
client is not satisfactorily established, and that gentleman
should be advised to proceed by Petition to the Supreme Court,
under the provisions of Section 52 of Act VIII. of 1855. — I
have the honour to be, &c.,

(Signed) James H. Stand'en,

Administrator-General.

Bombay, Administrator- General's Office, February 9 th,
1865.

BOMBAY BYCULLA CLUB AND OLDER CLUBS, 1822,

PHOTO OF BYCULLA CLUB BOMBAY 1850
The Oriental Club

was founded in London in 1824, limited
to six hundred members, with the Duke of Wellington as its
first President.

On July 6th, 1826, " Gregarius " writes to the
Bombay Courier advocating a club in Bombay on the model of
the Oriental.

The Bengal Club in Calcutta was projected in
March, 1827,

and the first dinner recorded of that club took
place on July 16th, 1827.

A Bombay Club had been estab-
lished in London in May, 1822

, consisting of members of the
Services who had retired, which, no doubt, was absorbed in the
Oriental.

The clubs which, previous to this time,

had existed
in Bombay had no local habitation. For example,

the Sans
Souci

often held its meetings in Cameron's Tavern, a splendid
hostelry fur its day.

Duncan Cameron died in 1822, and I
fancy the Sans Souci, which has a venerable history, did not
long survive him.

Then there was the Highland Society,
affiliated to the London one. They had no fixed habitation.
Their first dinner was at Parell on May 21st, 1822,

and was a
splendid entertainment, given to the members by Mountstuart
Elphinstone. This club had a chequered existence, and lingered
on till, I think, 1840, when it died of sheer inanition.

The
Saint Andrew's dinner had no corporate existence, but con-
sisted of a miscellaneous crowd drawn from the Caledonians
and their guests year after year. It is now more honoured in
the breach than the observance, and threatens to follow the
Highland Host.

The idea of the BycuUa Club did not take shape until 1832.


On February 1st of that year the

Courier writes : — " A club has


long been considered a desideratum in Bombay, and might be
introduced with great ease now that both the other Presidencies
have led the way." And on September 5th of the same year
the Courier begins an article headed in capitals : —

"Prospectus for the Establishment of a Club in
Bombay. — The example of Bengal and Madras proves that a
general club may be established at all the Indian Presidencies,
and supported on a handsome scale at a very moderate expense."


Theh the writer calculates, from a total of 1,300 belonging to
the Services, and the legal and mercantile men, that if 700
joined it at Es. 70 each, a capital of lis. 49,000 would result ;


and then he adds — " Preliminary steps have been taken. We
have been requested to state that it has been submitted to the
Eight Honourable the Governor and the leading members of
society at the Presidency, and has met with their cordial
approval.

In addition to this, three hundred gentlemen in
and near Bombay have come forward and offered their support,
and a donation, amounting to Es. 8,000, has already been made.
Subscriptions commenced on July 1st, 1832, and the club is
expected to open on January 1st, 1833.*

On July 1st, 1833, we meet with this advertisement, which
is the first occasion the name is mentioned : —

" Byculla Club. — The monthly meeting of the committee
of the club will take place in the club room on Saturday, the
6th inst., at 10 P M. A ballot for the admission of candidates
will be held the same day at 3 p.m. — Club Eoom, July 1st,
1833."

The club as a corporate society was no doubt formed between
July 1st, 1832, and July 1st, 1833. On February 12th, 1833,
a correspondent signing himself " Junglee " asks : " What has
become of the club ? " We will now endeavour to answer that
question from the materials at our disposal. On September 5th,
1832, the reader will see that, so far as the support of the
members was concerned, the club was un fait accompli.

It
was the difficulty in securing premises which caused the delay.


Various sites were suggested, and buildings already existing
were pointed out as suitable for the purpose. Whether it was
to be in the Port or miles away from it, this everlasting question
came up, while as yet the promoters had found no resting-place
for the soles of their feet ; like the dove from Koah's ark, they
fluttered about Byculla, Mazagon, and an impregnable position
within the walls of the Fort.

* Henry Blosse Lynch, 1807-78 ; master attendant Boml-ay dockyard,
1849 ; founder of the

Indian Navy Club

, once famous for its cuisine and its
hospitality to the other Scrvices.

On March 16th a meeting was called of the "Bombay
Club" — so it was called here — and William Newnham was
requested to take the chair. The committee reported that there
was no eligible buildino; in the Fort available.

Then the
" Grove," Mazagon, was talked about at the meeting, but
nothing came of it.

An opinion was expressed that it was too
far for men whose daily duties led them to the Fort.

The rent
was Es. 225, and otherwise it looked a likely place which could
be fitted for the purposes of a club.

This bungalow, erected
one hundred and twenty years ago,
and associated for many
years with the Ashburners,

can still be seen, though some little
alteration has been made in it. Less than the rent named was
taken for it twenty years ago. It is on the Mount Eoad, and
is approached by a long, straight avenue, bordered with rows of
casuarina trees.

It is close adjoining Mazagon Castle, the
oldest inhabited part of Bombay in this direction, for Mazagon
was a place of strength long before we set foot on the island.


Nothing, however, came of the " Grove."

Here we must make a digression, and hark back to 1821.


The BycuUa Eace Stand was built in six months, and was
to be opened on January 1st, 1822.

It was thus elegantly
described in the pages of the

Courier
: — The body of the
building in figure is nearly that of a square, and consists of
a principal floor supported by a rustic basement, from the north
or principal entrance of which is projected a colonnade of the
purest Grecian Doric, surmounted by a tastefully constructed
iron balustrade, which encompasses the balcony on a level with
the principal floor, and with which it immediately communi-
cates by means of a longitudinal range of folding sashes. The
BycuUa Eace Stand contains an assembly room for ladies,
forty-eight feet long, twenty-four broad ; tint of the walls,
maiden's blush ; admirably adapted for dinners and balls on a
limited scale. It is entered from a commodious landing-place,
in the middle having an ante-chamber on each side, which also
communicates with the principal apartment. That it was
found to be limited is evident from an entry under date
February 18th, 1826 : " Ball at Eace Stand unavoidably
abandoned, the limited accommodation of the building being
found inadequate for the purpose." A great number of men

were members of both clubs, and when at their wits' ends
would very likely cast their eye on the Eace Stand buildings.
Be fliat as it may, we have evidence sufficient that

the Turf
Club

made over their interest in the Eace Stand to the Byculla
Club — when, and how, and for what consideration, I know not.
But it does not matter.

In the Courier of January 25th, 1834,

is this notice : " "We
have been requested to notice that though the Mace Stand has
been given up to the Byculla Club, it will be open as usual
during the races to those ladies and gentlemen who wish to
see the running." I have italicised what seems to put beyond
a doubt that the Eace Stand, which still exists as a portion of
the Byculla, had been some time previously made over to it.


The following advertisement may have had reference to this
transference, and may have been one of the " questions of
importance" submitted to the meeting:

"The New Bombay
Turf Club

call a meeting of subscribers in the Club Eoom on
the 14th instant, to discuss questions of importance. Bombay,
June 6th, 1833." The transference of the Eace Stand may be
supposed to be one of those questions.

If this theory of mine
is correct, the Eace Stand built in 1821 was the nucleus of
the Byculla Club Buildings, and still remains as that place
which year after year is graced by the beauty and fashion of
Bombay.

The following notices may be interesting to some members,
and show that the vexed question of the removal of the club
cropped up at intervals during its early years : —

"January 14th, 1837. — Meeting of members of Byculla
Club. Entrance donation reduced to Es. 100 ; the same
received from new members in five monthly instalments of
Es. 20 each."

"January 14th, 1837. — Wanted to rent by the Byculla
Club, a large airy house within the Fort. Tenders to be made
to the Secretary, at the Club House, till 25th instant."

The Courier on January 20th, 1837, remarks : " It is in
contemplation to remove the Byculla Club to the Fort. ... A
comprehensive scheme for increasing the number of members
may then be appropriately termed the Bombay Club."

On
January 30th, an adjourned meeting of the Byculla Club was
held to take into consideration the feasibility of removing the
club into the Fort in Eampart Eow or vicinity.


One of the earliest dinners given by the Byculla Club

was
a magnificent entertainment to Chevalier Ventura,

General of
the army of Runjeet Singh

, at which the Admiral of the Fleet
and the Commander of the Forces were present. This was on
January 11th, 1839;

and on January 1st, 1840, it is noted
that Captain Outram was entertained to dinner by the Byculla
Club, fifty members being present, and J. Pollard Willoughby,
.Esq., in the chair.

The two leading Government servants at
this period were Newnham, Chief Secretary, and Wedderburn,
Accountant-General.

But two unofficial members of the
community were revolving great schemes, and for fifty years
afterwards their names were household words.

William Nicol, arriving fresh from the Marine, about 1822,
threw down the gauntlet to Fortune by essaying the construction
of a

Bombay Bank;*

and John Skinner,t with a splendid
mercantile training in Leghorn, arriving in 1825, distinguished
himself by founding the

Bombay Chamber of Commerce.

It
had its beginning on September 22nd, 1836, in a small meeting
in a room in the Custom House, when a few men met "to
establish a society to be called the Bombay Chamber of
Commerce." These two men were instrumental in mouldinjr
the commercial destinies of Bombay at this period.

* A Cafd. — Preparations are now making to establish a bank at this
Presidency, the general plan of which is similar to the subscription banks
of Great Britain. The CMpital will be ten lakhs of rujifes, divided mto 100
shares of Rs. 10,000 each. The objt-cts of the establishment are quite
unconnected with the performance of mercantile or agency business, and
ihose gentlemen who may be dispof^ed to become subscribers may have an
opportunity of doing so by apphing at the office of Mr. William Kicol, in
Meciows Street, where plans will be shown and every information given. — •
Bombay, September 7th, 1821^

t John Skinner, lato of Leghorn and Gibraltar, and George Ad-fm, late
H.K.I.C.S., this day est-blish themselves in Bomhiv under the firm of i^dam,
SUinner and Co., 30, Medows Street, May 12th, 1825.

BYCULLA CLUB, 1856.

Members of the Managing Committee.
(Elected half-yearly.)
Colonel J. Hale. Dr. E. T. Downes.
Captain Rivers. J. Baumhach, Esq.
F. Chapman, Esq. W. Johnson, Offig. Secy.
Hours for Opening and Closing the House.


The Club House shall be opened for the reception of
members at six o'clock in the morning, and closed at twelve
o'clock at night, after which hour the lights in the sitting rooms
are not to be kept burning.

No supper will be furnished after twelve o'clock. The
lights in the Billiard Eooms are not to be kept burning after
twelve o'clock at night.

No play of any kind shall be allowed
on Sunday.

Smoking

is allowed at half-past eight o'clock from
October 1st to March 31st,

and at nine o'clock from April 1st
to September 30th in the new dining-room.

Eules for the Admission of Guests.

1. — That every member shall be at liberty to entertain one
or more guests every evening at the Club, provided he has given
notice on the previous day to the Steward of the number of the
visitors he is about to introduce.

2. — That every member entertaining a guest at the Club
shall be responsible for the supplies furnished to him and for
all damages done by him.

3. — No strauger, unless he has dined at the Club, shall be
admitted to the Billiard Room, nor will any stranger be allowed
to engage the Billiard Table except through his host or some
other member of the Club.

4. — It shall be competent for the Committee from time to
time to refuse the admission of persons not fitted to be admitted
as quests, or wlio have misconducted themselves as such.

5. — It shall be competent for the Committee from time to
time, by a written order to the Steward, to refuse the right of

introducing guests to any members in arrears to the Club, or
who shall have refused to conform to these rules, or have
introduced improper persons, or otherwise have abused the
privilege of introducing guests.

6. — A book shall be kept, to be called the Visitors' Book, in
which the names of the visitors each day shall be entered, and
of the members introducing them, respectively, and the book
shall be taken to every member introducing a guest, and such
member shall sign his name opposite to that of his guest.

The Managing Committee consider that the rule requiring
the previous notice is one which is absolutely necessary to
preserve ; for, otherwise, the members of the Club may be put
to the greatest inconvenience by an unforeseen number of guests
coming to share in supplies procured for members only.

The Managing Committee are anxious, however, to press the
rule no farther than the necessity which led to its existence
requires, and the Steward has accordingly received orders to
inform any member introducing a guest without the notice
required by Rule 1, whether the guest can be provided with
dinner or not, it being understood that the right of a guest so
introduced to dine at the Club must be subordinate to all the
members present that evening to have their tables in the first
instance properly supplied.

From this most important club, which has bulked so big for
more than fifty years in Bombay society, let us turn by way of
contrast to

Bombay's

smallest club. Mr. Herbert Compton,

not unknown in letters, and a grandson of our distinguished
Chief Justice of the same name, when in Bombay lately
informed me that towards the end of " the twenties " there
existed a club in Bombay which consisted

of only four
members. It was called

" The Deal Table Club,"

and its
presiding genius was Tom Morris, the " John Docherie " of tbe
Sporting Magazine. It was founded on good fellowship and
a basis of economical notions that suited camping out on
shikaring expeditions, Mr. Compton has in his possession an
impression of the seal of this old Bombay club, on which are
portrayed the inevitable deal table, two spears, and •' the mighty
boar."

BOMBAY YACHT CLUB Established March 3Rd, 1846.LIST OF MEMBERS AND YACHTS 1856




The Eisht Hon. Lord Elphinslone, G.C.H., Patron.

The Hon. Sir William Yardky, Kt , Vice Patron.

]{ ear- Admiral i^ir Henry J. Leeke, K.H., R.N., Commodore.

Silencer Compton, Epq., Vice Commodore.

John Stuart, Esq., Treasurer.

C. Kingcome, Esq., Secretary.

Vachts.

1st Class.

Water Queen, Lateen. Challenge, Cutter.

Cinderella, Lateen. Orient, Cutter.

2nd Class.

Sunbeam, Cutter.

Yachts not bond fide property, but permitted to sail as yachts of
the Club :—

Augusta, Schooner. Shamrock, Sliding Gunter.

Cruiser, Sliding Gunter. Sylvia, Sliding Gunter.

Fox, Lateen. Charlotte, Schooner.

Black Diamond, Lateen.

List of Members.

Rear-Admiral Sir Henry J. Leeke, K.H., C(>mmodore.

Sjiencer Compton, Esq., Vice Commodore.

Henry Young, Esq., C.S. Capt. Felix Jones, I.N.

Major H. J. Barr. Capt. Gillett.

Cursetjee Jamsetjee, Et-q, J. A. Baumbach, Esq.

Capt. G. Jenkins, LN. Capt. Frushard, LN.

J. ijtuart, Esq. Dr. Reynolds.

Capt. Hamilton, LN". 'J'he Hon. J. G. Lumsden, C.S.

T. S. Cowie, Es
Capt. Grainier. J. Wood, Etq.

Lient. R. M. Grieve, LN. H. Scott, Esq.

M. Scott, Esq. J. Macfarlane, Esq.

11. E. Leeke, Esq. J. Cuvillier, E.sq.

Capt. Morris. John Cassels, Esq.

Capt. Crockett. W. T. Hunter, Esq.

Dr. Ballingall. C. J. Davies, Esq., C.S.

C. Kingcome, Esq. J. J. Lowndes, Esq.

W. H. Barker, Esq., LN. Capt. Burke.
Capt. Kempthorne, LN.

A goodly show of members and yachts also, considering
that most of the Bombay yachts were destroyed in the great
hurricane of November 1st and 2nd, 1854.

BOMBAY GOLF CLUB 1841

(PHOTO 1927 CLUB)
A BOMBAY GOLF CLUB IN THE FORTIES.

1.) A BOMBAY GOLF CLUB IN THE FORTIES.

THIS Club was originally projected in 1841. The following
is the list of office bearers and ordinary members brought
down to December 7th, 1845.

Office Bearers.

H. H. Glass, Esq., C.S., Captain.

J. B. Burnes, Esq., M.l)., LL D., K.H., Senior Councillor.
J. Smith, Esq., Junior Councillor.
W. W. Cargill, Esq., Treasurer.
George Buist, Esq., LL.D., Secretary.
Rev. George Cook, Chai)lain.
Tlie above form the Council of the Club.
Gregor Grant, Esq., Champion.
C. Forbes, Standard Hearer.
T. J. A. Scott, Poet Laureate.

Ordinary Members.

Capt. B. Methen. Lieut. Fanning, 1st Grenadiers.

Capt. J. Reddie. Lieut Ta- lor, 3rd Regt. N.L.L

G. Farie. John Stuart, Bank of Bombay.

W. Smyttan. Capt. Hogg, Sec. to the Commander-in-
R. M. Kein. ( 'liief.

J. Wright. Andrew Glass.

W. F. Hunter. J. Baumbach.

H. L. Anderson, C.S. Major Smee.

P. W. LeGeyt, C.S. W. Howard.

T. F. Grey. Dr. Bremner.

T. Edmond. Capt. D, Davidson.

J. Gordon. Cap'. Swanson.

T). Blane, C.S. J. Jaraieson.

Lieut. J. Rennie, I.M. A. Smart.

Col. Dunstervilie. A. H. Campbell.

Capt. C. Rowley. W. Scott.

H. B. Herrick J. F. Wingate.

A. L. Syers. R. Brown.

R. Burns. H. L. W. Armstrong.

Dugald Bremner. T. G. Brown.
H. B. Tristram.

1842, October 19th.— The London Blackheath Club have
resolved that the Captain of the Bombay Golf Club be con-
sidered an Honorary Member of the Blackheath Club.

25 DAYS, IN A PALANQUIN ,AMONG TIGERS AND DACOITS .BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 1825




ACROSS INDIA IN A PALKEE.

which brought out Sir Charles Napier, and he often used to
relate that he was the last through passenger wHo went by
Dak Palkee to Calcutta.



In 1870 I rode with Mr. Hay on horseback for several
hundred miles, and for a few weeks together, through Syria,
and had ample time and opportunity to ask him about this
mode of locomotion and as to how he stood the journey, but
it did not occur to me to do so, and thus much valuable
information was lost.

The railway having now superseded
this method of travelling — driven it into secluded districts, and
so in a manner relegated it to ancient history — it is now my
business to endeavour, by ploughing among dead men's bones,
to gather together some particulars about Palkee travelling to
Calcutta and elsewhere.

This was the mode which Mountstuart Elphinstone generally
adopted in his long journey from Calcutta to Poona in 1801,
and which touched up his liver so much that he felt the effects
of it during the rest of his life.

Heber, in 1824, rode on horse
and camel-back a good part of the way, but occasionally adopted
this method of travelling in his Mofussil journeys. Though
cra^nped, he found it neither violent nor unpleasant, but he
could not sketch in a palanquin or read anything but large
print.

But we must begin at the beginning. Posting by
palkee was an organisation of the East India Company, and was
entirely under the control of the Postal Department or the
District Collectors,

and early in " the forties," or, to be particular,
say in 1845,. if you intended proceeding from Bombay
to Calcutta by this mode of conveyance you had to put
yourself in communication with the head of the Postal
Department at least ten days before the date of your intended
departure, giving him your destination, with many other
particulars (which we will endeavour to relate), such as the
exact day and hour of your intended departure from Bombay.


You elect, we will suppose, the route by Poona, Hyderabad,
Vizagapatam, Masulipatam, and Cuttack. Very well. As
there are close upon a hundred halting stations,

you will require
to state how long you intend halting at each of them, and the
names of the stations you intend to halt at, stating whether
for sleep or refreshment. You are a " stout " party, this word

meaning in those days Not corpulent but robust, and intend to
do the journey in twenty-two days.* You know what palkee
travelling is.

You have gone to Love Grove, Worlee, we will
suppose, five miles, and have emerged as stiff as a poker. Bear
in mind your intended

journey is one of 500 hours' duration.

If
it is in April or May you will journey mostly by night and rest
during the day. The reason why the Postmaster requires all
these particulars is that the laying down a dak to Calcutta
involves an immense correspondence, and the route covers
nearly 1,400 miles.

You will please to remember the hamals are
in sets, and go only a certain mileage, that they are drawn from
their homes, which lie at distances from the halting stations,
and that in the Nizam's dominions every hamal starts from
Hyderabad, or says he does so, to its remotest boundary, and
that you, a traveller, will require to pay these hamals every
day their wages from the day they are supposed to leave their
homes until they return thereto

. You will require changes of
linen and clothing, so you are allowed two banghy bardars, who
will swing on their shoulders your kit, not more than fifty-six
pounds

. Brandy goes into narrow compass — you must depend
upon beer where you can find it, and you will require to pay
through the nose for it in these distant regions, owing to the
expense of carriage.



If your period is the rains, be thankful if you escape
malaria,
or if in the hot weather, sunstroke.
It may be your
last journey,

and the palanquin may become your catafalque ;
certainly, even in our day the dead body of a traveller has been
taken out of a palkee. I have not alluded to the crossing of
rivers or the danger of being drowned in a box, or surprised by
a tiger.

Your bearers drop their burden like lightning, and
make tracks for the nearest tree, or bumping against some rock
in the dark you are shot out of your tabernacle like a catapult,
your Venetian along with you ; happily for you if you fall among
the yielding branches of some bush, scrub or tree ; or you are


attacked by dacoits

who hunt in gangs, plundered and left dead
or wounded in the jungle, or, may be, confronted by a swollen

river. A man has just told us that his bearers once deserted
him, and that he had to haul his palkee for four days on a
couAry cart.

These are contingencies you must face, and I
warn you that Government by public notification held them-
selves free of all responsibility for you or for your luggage.


You may read the notice up in every post office " that neither
Government nor any of their officers are responsible to the
traveller for the misfortunes and disappointments which are
insepai'able from dak travelling ; thus every traveller travels at
his own risk,

and is liable to the losses and increased expenses
incidental to delays and accidents, and Government can in
no instance be considered liable to make good any losses
whatever."

" When a private gentleman requires bearers to be posted
for him, he should be very particular in stating to his corre-
spondent whom he relies upon for assistance — the day, even the
hour, on which he proposes to commence his journey ;

the
places he intends to halt at for refreshment,

and the time he
intends to halt for that purpose.

If neglectful of these particu-
lars the hamals may reach their stations several days before
they are required, and perhaps put the traveller to a great
(iditional expense.

Should the traveller on any occasion wish
to halt a day at any place,

his stating his intention previously
would save the posting of one set. For instance a traveller
from Bombay to Poona will meet the first PoOna set at Khola-
poor, and, supposing that they take him to the top of the ghat
to breakfast, they can, having refreshed themselves, take him
on in the evening to Wurgaon, or they might come to Karlee
to breakfast and run to Wurgaon or Talligaon in the evening.
For the extra labour, however, they would be entitled to at
least half a rupee each man additional.

The hamals at Panwell
are under the Collector at Tanna ;

at Poona they are under the
Collector in the city and under the bazaar master in camp, and
this applies to Skolapore."

Now for the question of expense. It may be useful for you
to read the following, unless money is out of the question. " A
set of dak bearers comprises twelve, and one mussalchee, for
whicli is charged, payable in advance, at the rate of eight annas
per mile ; but as in many instances, owing to the delay caused --

--by travellers remaining longer on the road than the stipulated
time, this sum is found unequal to the expense, a further sum
of four annas per mile is required to be paid as a deposit to
cover any eventual expense or demurrage caused by delay on
the part of .the traveller.

Should none occur the full amount of
the sum deposited is refunded, upon the traveller furnishing a
certificate from the deputy postmaster at the place where his
journey is finished, that he arrived there without incurring
demurrage." And " when it is reported that a

traveller comes
on demurrage

on any part of the road, the adjustment of the
amount deposited to cover such expenses will be postponed
until the receipt of the bills for the dak from all the postmasters
through whose divisions the traveller may have passed.

" And
if you change your mind during these ten days preliminary to
your intended starting you will require to pay for it, which is
only fair, as '' heaven and earth " have been moved by the
authorities all along the line on your account.

" When dak
has been ordered and circumstances may render it expedient
for the traveller to postpone his journey, or to withdraw the
bearers entirely, he will of course be held liable for any expense
which may have been incurred on his account.

The amount
paid for the dak and deposited to cover demurrage will
remain unadjusted until reports are received from the General
Postmaster upon the line of route upon which the dak was
ordered."

I will give an abstract of what you will require to pay in
Bombay for your palkee passage alone.

I need not mention
that for all meats and drinks and spiritual ordinances you will
require to pay cash down on your line of march.

I conclude
you are not going this journey in grandc tcnue, and will dispense
with a butler ; but you will require cherry merry s in numero; to
the bheestie wlio souses you with a chattie of cold water over
your head in the morning, and to fakeers and all the omnium
gatherum of mendicants who will persecute you and howl you
sick until you give them an obolus. You will observe that
through the Nizam's dominions the charges are twice as heavy
as through other territories, and the reason I assign for this is
that all the hamals must come from Hyderabad, and it is the
distance that lends cnhancemiut, not enchantment, to the view



" Had you any companion ? " I once asked a man at the end
of a very long palanquin journey. " The only companion I had
was my pipe," was the reply.

So be sure you take plenty of
tobacco and manilla cheroots and several pipes, as everything
breakable will go to smash ere you reach Calcutta.

I advise
you also to take a copy of Bunyan's Filgrim's Progress in large
type, suitable for schools or for old men whose sight is failing
them, as you will meet with Sloughs of Despond and Hills of
Evil Council galore, and will find when you get there that
Calcutta is not the Celestial City.

Moreover, be not tempted
by objects of attraction, unless in your immediate purview.
Bijapur and Vizianagar are not to be thought of.

And any
subaltern at some military station a few miles from your line
of march, though he be your dearest friend, you must pass
by as if he had no existence.

Such deviations would put your
chain of communication out of gear, and disturb the whole
harmony of your arrangements. Hundreds of hamals at fifty
different stations are now awaiting you, chewing betel and
cleaning their teeth. Not that they object to the detention.
Every day's delay is a day's additional pay which you will
be required to liquidate.

Rupees.

Poona range, 259 miles, cost for 12 haiuals and musaul at
each stao;e

Oil and Miickadura's foes perhaj s additional

^Nizam's Teiritory, 275 miles, do., would cost.

]VI«suiipatam CulUctorship, 105 miles „

Kajiimundry „ 100 „ „

Vizagapatam „ 122 „ „

Cbicacolc, „ 125 „ „

Ciittack „ 112 „ „

Jelassore „ 126 „ „

To Tumlook „ 95 „ „



326
20

700
33
55
24
31
34
42
26



Tutal



1,319 Miles

Rs. 1,291"

I don't think in the whole of India you could take a more
uninteresting journey.

Half of the halting stations have
unpronounceable names, and of half a hundred more the names
you have never heard before.

There is not one city of great
And historical renown, neither battlefield nor palace. You have
many an ancient river and many a palmy plain, but little else.


And when you are done with it, the Duke's Nose at Khandalla
and the Temple of Orissa dedicated to Jugannath are about the
only objects that will arrest your attention or live in your
memory.

In Chicacole at Barwa my guide book says " fine
whiting here," and at Poonda " fish and oysters," and I am told
to " watch the tide," which to one who has seen the Solway or
the race horses in the Gulf of Cambay is poor consolation. No,
my friend, I would not give the pomphlet of Bandra or the
oysters of Jinjeera for all your seas hold between the mouths of
the Krishna and the mouths of the great river Mahanadi.

And the Chilka Lake, with its sands knee-deep. Bah !
Did not Elphinstone feel there " bilious and ill ? " "I w^alked
along the shore at eleven. I found myself still unwell, so I
lay down and slept till half-past twelve.

" Had that sleep
ended as it sometimes did there would have been a big gap in
the History of India. And here I am reminded by a friend of
the

late Mr. Joseph Jefferson's experiences,

which will apply to
1845 or thereabouts. Some of our readers may recollect that
he was long the Father of the Bombay Solicitors, of which fact,
on his resuming practice, Chief Justice Westropp reminded him
in open Court. He was fifty years on the roll of the Solicitors
of the High Court. Mr. Jefferson had been in Ceylon on
professional business, and made his way by sea to Madras. It
was the height of the monsoon, and his further progress by sea
was barred. He applied to the Postmaster to have a palkee dak
laid for Bombay. He was told that it was madness, but the
exigencies of business required his presence in Bom.bay, so
what with strong remonstrances and all other legal means the
dak was laid.

At first the journey was not so bad as he had
anticipated, and became very tolerable as he neared Dharwar.
There are some sappy places about Sholapore, but as to how he
crossed the Bhima, the Sina, or their numerous tributaries there
is no record. The black soil and moorum of Poona would be a
caution, so, with firmer footing for his bearers on the tableland
of the Dekhan above the Ghauts, from which we can imagine
him descending with many a bump, if it was during or soon
after a heavy hursat, a spectacle would meet his eye fit to

appal the stoutest heart

. We have all seen it, but under very
different circumstances (from the cushioned seat of a first class
railway carriage). Campoli Tank almost obliterated as an
entity, or converted into a great sea, that in the dusk stretched
to the horizon, with long lines of trees which rose aboA'e and
dotted the surface, marking the track of the great Poona High
lioad now deep down under water.

How he piloted his way over the labyrinth of muddy dykes,
or floundered through the quaking bogs of Tanna and Kalyan,
or steered his aerial bark over the plastic gum of Salsette,
determined that it should not " serve as paste and cover to his
bones," we cannot imagine.

We take it for granted that Mr. Jefferson had been interned
in his portable tabernacle, excepting for intervals of sleep and
refreshment, for fifteen days. As he emerged from his prison-
house and touched the doorstep of his bungalow at Colaba,

he
must have felt like Noah coming out of the ark after the
deluge.

That he survived such an ordeal was due to the
Providence of God and a robust constitution.

It is needless
to remind the reader that this was the orthodox mode of
locomotion from Sir Thomas Roe to Lord Roberts (for he
travelled in this way for several weeks from Allahabad to
Peshawar) down to the advent of railways.

You ask why the
route to Calcutta was not by Nagpore and the Central
Provinces ? We answer that the road was the old route, and
that the Nagpore arrangement was not yet inaugurated. When
one remembers how little there was to see it must have been a
blessed exchange. A glance at that hrochure de luxe, the
Bombay and Baroda Railway Guide for 1895, makes one bless
his stars that he lives not fifty years ago.

For what would an
India be without Ahmedabad, Jeypore, Agra, Delhi or Benares ?
These are names that leave everlasting pictures on the mind's
retina.

When I scan the names of these great historic cities,
crowded with so many associations, military and political, and
contrast them with the barren and colourless items of the
hundred halting stations by this palkee route,

I pity the poor
traveller whose lot was sent to make the journey via Masuli-
patam from Bombay to Bengal in tlie year of Grace 1845.