Thursday, December 20, 2012

The Rewari Steam Locomotive Shed of the Northern Railways

Rewari‑Steam‑Loco‑shed,‑picture‑1930.


Description:


Rewari Steam Locomotive Shed is the only surviving steam loco shed in India housing some of India's last surviving steam locomotives. Built in 1893, a decade before the Old Delhi Railway Station, it was the only loco shed in North India for a long time and part of the track connecting Delhi with Peshawar, while the metre gauge track built in 1873 from Delhi towards Rewari is India�s oldest. After steam engines were phased out of Indian Railways in early 1990s, the shed remained in neglect for many years, before it was revived in December 2002 dedicated to the Nation by the Indian Railways, as a Heritage steam locomotive shed. Subsequently, two lines were removed to make way for a broad gauge (BG) line, connecting the shed with the Rewari-Bathinda main section. Next, four BG engines and a 30-tonne steam crane were brought in from the National Rail Museum Delhi, and this was followed by construction of a dual broad gauge and a metre gauge locomotive shed, a machine shop, a wheel pit, a turntable, a tool room and a mini exhibition hall. Besides the metre gauge steam engines, five broad gauge steam engines have been restored and are being maintained for heritage service. Presently, the shed houses 09 steam engines.
 =================================================




Rewari loco shed may lose steam

Vishal Kant,New Delhi, Jan 29,2012,DHNS:
With just 25 staff, the ‘heritage site’ faces challenge of lack of trained workforce
Even as the Rewari Steam Loco Shed has gone a long way in reviving some of the rare steam locomotives, the biggest challenge before the railways would be to maintain and keep them in motion.

Ex-railway officials say the department must hire people with expertise. DH PHOTOWhile the shed has earned the tag of 'heritage site' for being one of the rarest steam engine sheds in the world, the biggest challenge in near future would be availability of workforce—well-trained in working on steam engines.

At present, the total number of staff at the Rewari shed is 25. They have played a crucial role in reviving the shed from its ruins. While at least three of them are due to retire this year, gradually the entire team would be out of service by 2015.

“The shed is already understaffed and with the steam maintenance cadre abolished, any special recruitment of people for steam engines is unlikely. Moreover, there are several sub-systems involved with running of steam engine. So people with technical know-how of the operating and maintaining such engines are any way few,” said the staff members of the loco shed.

They added that even if people are specially hired for the job, no standard training programme in a prescribed time period would prove handy in making such employees technically equipped to run and maintain steam engines. “We learnt the tricks of the trade over years, and a short duration training programme is no solution.”

Railway officials involved with the project concede that while the steam engines have been revived, the larger question is: Is the railways alive to the challenges in terms of their maintenance in future and will it be in a position to maintain them a decade down the line? 

“One of the major steps in the direction could be to retain the skills of people, who can pass on the wisdom to the next generation. In order to recruit some additional people, the erstwhile the steam maintenence cadre could be amalgamated with the existing cadre of engineers maintaining diesel and electric engines,” said Vikas Arya, senior divisional mechanical engineer (power).

Retired railway officials who have worked in the steam-engine era say its high time the railways should engage people with expertise who could prove handy in maintaining the engines and the shed.

“People are ready to work even voluntarily. The only thing they expect is a job with honour. For any technology which earns heritage value, there is a shadow period of around 30 years, the time by which one can come across talent which can share the wisdom and train the future generation,” said G Shanker, a retired railway official.
Shanker is also a member of the Indian Steam Railway Society, which acts as a pressure group that works to make sure that interest of people and the government in heritage is not lost.  While the steam engines started getting phased out after the advent of diesel engines in 1960s, the last steam engine was phased out of commercial operation on December 6, 1995, when the engine had last run from Ferozpur to Jalandhar.
========================================================================


Time Traveller
Taj Express, 1964







© Rewari Steam Loco Shed
A WP steam locomotive hauling the Taj Express

It’s hard to think of a time when India didn’t focus on tourism. However, before the sixties got well and truly under way, luring people to our many monuments didn’t figure too high on the agenda. A major turning point in the country’s attitude to tourism was the introduction of the first dedicated tourist train—the Taj Express, which started operations in 1964. It was a masterpiece in many ways. Leaving New Delhi railway station at dawn, it would take a mere two-and-a-half hours to reach Agra Cantonment station. This at a time when the shortest rail link between these two stations took in excess of three hours. Perfect for day-long sightseeing trips, the return train would leave Agra in the evening and get one back to Delhi the same night.
As an additonal sop to the multitude of foreign tourists who made a beeline for this train, booking a return fare meant that one would have the same seat number in both directions. Add to that a nice breakfast and dinner, as well as beautifully appointed AC chair cars, and the classic WP steam engines that hauled the trains and you had exotic India on a single line.
That old Taj Express is long gone—superseded by the Agra Shatabdi—but its tradition lives on in later trains like the Palace on Wheels.
Rewari Steam Loco Shed, A Photo Essay

Rewari Steam Loco Shed, A Photo Essay









The morning of March 3, 2012
Seven motorcyclists met for breakfast at Manesar
Five proceeded to Rewari Railway Station, 90 kms from New Delhi

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The proud legacy
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The proud legacy

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Angadh, the one that welcomes you
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Angadh, the one that welcomes you

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Still going strong
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Still going strong

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Standing tall and strong
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Standing tall and strong

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Just a mangled set of iron now
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Just a mangled set of iron now

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The boiler pipes
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The boiler pipes

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Workmen repairing the boiler
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Workmen repairing the boiler

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Firing up the engine
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Firing up the engine

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Not a bad place for a meal, eh?
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: Not a bad place for a meal, eh?

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The royal watering hole
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The royal watering hole

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The man who loves his job
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The man who loves his job

Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The entire visiting group
Rewari Steam Loco Shed: The entire visiting group

 

Welcome to Rewari Steam Loco Shed which re-opened on the 9th Oct 2010, join us in celebrating the return of the Steam Locomotives. The restoration of this heritage shed from a ruin, lost and forgotten, to its present grand state has been a long process involving timely funding and more than that the dedication, planning and expeditious execution by my Engineers.
Rewari Steam Loco shed is now on its way to take its prominent place on the steam map of the world, it has had many visitors, besides steam enthusiasts from India and abroad, who have come to enjoy the steam engines in their full glory. There are many who saw a working Steam Locomotive for the first time in their life. Seeing such huge machines at work is one the most humbling experience in life and perhaps, the most joyous one too. For the old timers, its pure nostalgia of an era gone by, where every child wanted to be an Engine Driver and blow the whistle.
 
History - Rewari Steam Loco shed was started in the year 1893 and was under the jurisdiction of Bombay Baroda and Central India Railways (BB&CIR), Rewari soon became one of the biggest junctions on the meter gauge route and the shed too was the largest Meter Gauge loco shed in India with close to 500 maintenance staff working at its peak. In the early 1900 the shed primarily homed 'P' class engines. The Shed's locos worked trains to Delhi, Bhatinda, Churu, Fulera etc. Though the pre Independence holdings are not known, the shed had a holding of 65 MG locos between 1980-82. Rewari also had 395 loco drivers on roll making it a major crew depot as well.
The shed had a working span of 100 years and was closed down in the year 1993, by 1994 all but two locos, YG 3415 and YG 3438, were cut up and sold as scrap. The shed was planned to be converted to a MG Diesel Loco shed and from Sept'93 Diesel locos were maintained here, this practice stopped in Aug'96. In 1994 The Royal Orient Express was started and was to be hauled by two steam locomotives on the stretch between Delhi Cantt and Rewari with this, the shed again came to prominence for some time. In 2001 it was planned to convert the shed to a heritage shed. By this time all meter gauge routes to Rewari had been converted to broad gauge and some vintage BG locos were also planned to be homed here, one bay of the shed was converted to Broad gauge for this purpose. In May 2002 WP 7161 became the first loco to come to Rewari Shed followed by WP 7200. On 14th Aug 2002 the then Railway Minister Sh. Nitish Kumar opened the shed, declaring it as the Heritage Steam Shed.
Rewari Locos have been a part of several Bollywood period films, Guru, Gandhi- My Father, Rang de Basanti, Gadar are a notable few. The shed has been given a new lease of life with large scale renovation and restoration carried out in 2010, A new cafeteria, a small library and a museum have been added. However, the sprit of the place is intact, with the same shed building dating back to 1893 and majestic black beauties back in action.
 
The Revival - Vikas Arya, the Sr. Divisional Mechanical Engineer says, "Taking over the charge of Rewari in Feb' 2010, I found to my dismay, that out of the 9 steam locomotives based here, only 2, one BG AWE-22907 and one MG YP-3415, were in some kind of working order, rest of the locos were in a complete state of rust in peace. 2 broad gauge locos, belonging to this shed, WP-7200 and WP-7161 were lying at Kolkata and Siliguri, at nature's mercy. Rewari shed itself was in a state of total neglect, with crumbling walls and leaky roofs, wild vegetation was all over and the spirits of the last 25 men standing guard to the 118 year old locomotive shed and the rich steam heritage of Indian Railways, was on a depressing low.
The first task was to give the men a sense of purpose and instil a sense of pride in them, here the infectious zeal of Ashwani Lohani, the steam man of India and DRM/Delhi came handy. Offered a cup of tea on his maiden visit to the shed by the staff in Feb'10, he refused to take it saying- "no one has a cup of tea in a graveyard.. get the locos running and then we have a feast here", the words had the required emotional impact that was needed. On my subsequent visit two days later, a hammer could be heard at a distance. An hour long chat session with the old guys of steam, had them committed to the task that the skies of Rewari will soon see smoke puffing out of loco chimneys and the whistle will be heard once more."
It was an odious task to have the 2 WP locos, stationed in Eastern India hauled back to Delhi, at 30 Kmph over a distance of 1490 Kms, the movement order was released by the board in July' 10 and loco 7200 WP left its rusty confines of Howrah yard and moved towards Delhi, on way to Rewari. Getting 7161 out of the cooler confines of Siliguri, farther east of Kolkata was relatively easier. By now the remaining 2 YG locos had been reconditioned by my men, by July end 3 out the 4 meter gauge locos were on steam and the work on WP 7161, that had reached Rewari in mid July, was on at a brisk pace. Another Loco, WL15005 that had been involved in a freak accident 3 years earlier, that had unfortunately killed its driver, had been sealed as a case property by the police. I filed an application in the honourable court in Feb'10 stating that the locomotive was a National heritage and the only such class of locomotive in India and if left unattended, a priceless piece if history will be lost. To our good fortunes, the learned judge in the very first hearing could gauge the significance of the matter and released the stay on the locomotive in April '10. With this order I was free to bring this lovely machine back to life.
We had 3 big locos in hand, 25 men and just days to make them puff. Basic tools were not available, there were no furnaces, expanders and cutters had to be procured. Working against all odds our perseverance worked, we had to do it, no matter what! The majestic WP 7200 was put on steam on the 25th Aug, WP 7161 was 'fired' on the 31st of Aug and WL 15005 was tested on 20th of Sept. By September end the chimneys of 7 Locos were stamping the overclouded skies of Rewari with steam and smoke, announcing the re-birth of Black Beauties to one and all.
Civil work of the makeover started in early August and in spite of the heavy rains, was completed by October. In the meantime I had started collecting pieces of antique furniture, Crockery, Benches, Clocks, Telephones, Radio, Gramophone, Typewriters, Hand Signal Lamps, Semaphore signals, Old photographs, Miniature Models, Blueprints, Books and anything related to Steam Locos that could add value to this place, friends all over the Railways helped, specially my friend Vivek Sheel (SR. DME/JBP). A new Logo for the shed was designed, souvenirs planned, History of all the classes of the locos homed here was penned, which can be read in the Our Locomotive section. A lot of personal effort has gone to revive Rewari Shed but none matches the effort of my men here, without whom nothing was possible.

 


 












 REWARI LOCOMOTIVE SHED PACKAGE (SAME DAY RETURN)
home
Delhi To Rewari Tour
Price starting from:
  1710/-
Duration:
1 Day
Per Person Package cost.INR 1710 /- Per Person.

Description:
Prices given above are on per person basis in INR.

Accommodation: - Not Applicable

Note: The guests have to report at 0715 Hrs at IRCTC Tourism Facilitation Center Ground Floor, Jawahar Vyapar Bhawan, 1 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi - 01
**In case the total number of bookings are below 15 in any of the departures. The tour shall be cancelled and the full booking amount will be refunded.

For bookings please contact kamal.kathiat@irctc.com / tourismnz@irctc.com / deepakjuyal@irctc.com

                        
Cost per Person:-








Monday, December 17, 2012

The decline and fall of nariman point and surrounding areas


When Air India recently called for bids to rent 18 of its 23 floors in its flagship building in Nariman Point, only two state run enterprises – the State Bank of India and the Sales Tax Department – showed any interest, that too only for a couple of floors each. Shocked at the tepid response, Air India mandarins called an emergency meeting of their auditors to find out what was wrong. Had the babus bothered to ask around, they would have figured that many of their iconic neighbours are also half empty and finding it equally hard to fill the space up.

 The problem, in fact, is with Nariman Point. It has been about two years since the south Mumbai enclave ceded the pride of being the city’s preeminent business district to Bandra-Kurla Complex, where commercial rentals are now the highest in the city, with an average of Rs 350 per square foot per month, a figure that goes up to Rs 600 for premium properties. In comparison, Nariman Point, which commanded similar rentals in its glory days in the mid-2000s, now settles for a humbling Rs 250.
It wasn’t always like this. What was envisioned as a business district for small and medium enterprises at the height of licence raj in the 1970s became Mumbai’s prime business centre over the next 20 years.
This was followed by the heady postliberalisation days when multinationals, keen to set up operations in India, thronged in and average rentals shot up to Rs 500.
In the mid-2000s, the decline began, as companies that wanted larger spaces began to turn to the newly established Bandra-Kurla Complex. By 2009, BKC was commanding as much premium as Nariman Point, if not more, and companies began the long march north. Even by these standards, 2012 has been Nariman Point’s annus horribilis. Rentals have been sliding unabated, vacancies have been piling up and there seem to be no takers for all the vacant space. Commercial rental data for the first three quarters of 2012 show that while the city’s average vacancy rate is 18 per cent, Nariman Point’s is 25 per cent.
Experts say this downward trend will continue for a few years before a crucial question faces the district: What next? When that point comes, these experts say, Nariman Point as we know
it today could become one big residential enclave for the very rich.

THE EXODUS
According to real estate experts, a combination of factors played a role in driving companies northward towards BKC and other suburban hubs. “The first reason is that there is no good quality space available in the area,” said Ramesh Nair, managing director (west India) of Jones Lang LaSalle, a commercial real estate consultant.

“Companies these days are looking at large spaces, like 30,000 to 40,000 square feet, with amenities like ample parking space, food courts, and gymnasiums. This kind of space isn’t
available at Nariman Point.”

But even when companies started shifting to BKC starting from 2009, most of the big companies still found value in having their front offices in Nariman Point. But of late, companies are shifting even their front offices to BKC. Almost all big banks like Standard Chartered, Deutsche Bank, and JP Morgan, which had front offices in  Nariman Point, have moved these offices to BKC.
“We saw a lot of advantages in moving to BKC,” said Mahesh Aras, chief administrative officer & head of human resources, JP Morgan India. “It has connectivity on the central and western railways and the expressways, making it a more convenient commute for 70-80% of our employees.”
Further, BKC provides corporates with the contiguous space that Nariman Point, with its multiple ownership pattern, could never offer them. “Our current location is in a standalone building exclusively dedicated to all our wholesale bank businesses. At Nariman Point, we had a staggered presence across floors in a multi-tenanted building,” said Aras.
Another reason companies have shifted from places in south Mumbai is safety, which is high on the priority list of MNCs and big Indian businesses. Most buildings in the area are more than 30 years old. On the other hand, of the 29 buildings in Mumbai that have received any kind of Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design ratings, an urban design standard, BKC has seven, all of them with either gold or platinum ratings, which means these buildings score highly in energy efficiency, water efficiency and have better indoor environmental quality. The final reason is that Nariman Point remains relatively expensive.
Though it does not cost Rs 500 per sq ft, the rent, at Rs 275 to Rs 300, is still prohibitive for small and medium businesses. In comparison, even state-ofthe- art buildings in Parel go for Rs 150. In short, the area no more gives companies enough bang for their buck.
THE RISE OF BKC
To be sure, Nariman Point was not Mumbai’s first central business district. The earliest business centre was Ballard Estate, which was the city’s commercial hub in the late 18th century and early 19th century. Then, businesses slow moved to the Fort area, which ruled in the mid-19th century. As the city kept growing, Nariman Point was developed in the early 1970s to serve small businesses and establishments.

“If you look at any world city, the commercial centre keeps moving every 40-odd years,” said a self-employed professional who has had his office in Nariman Point for over 30 years and who did not want to be named for this report. “Offices were built in the range of 400 sq ft to 3,000 sq ft. While the small businesses rented or owned the smaller spaces, the big business houses had their own contained buildings, like the Mafatlal Centre.”
Just as Nariman Point had firmly established itself as the central business district, the central government opened up the economy in 1991. The multi-nationals came flocking. Almost every big bank or company that entered India opened a liaison office in Nariman Point.
“They were kind of testing the waters in the first 10 years,” said the businessman mentioned above. “And then when they saw that India was a good place to do business in and that they could move some of their operations here, they started looking for bigger spaces. This suddenly added an extra zero to their space requirement. Nariman Point just did not have that kind of space to offer.”
The MNCs were also discovering the perils of dealing with multiple landlords. If a company occupied even one floor in a Nariman Point building, they almost always had multiple landlords.
One landlord would want them to vacate and another would want them to pay a higher rent. In one instance, Chase Bank, which had its offices in the 7th and 8th floors of a building, had to take one of its two landlords to court to stop him from constantly harassing them with ad hoc conditions.

By the late 1990s, as corporates had woken up to the drawbacks of Nariman Point, a planned business centre had risen in the marshlands to the north of the Mahim Creek, at the other end of the island city. But there were no takers for this space back then.

“Developers had invested a lot in building Bandra-Kurla Complex but barring a handful of state enterprises, nobody would set up office there,” said the businessman. “It was a ghost town, just like Belapur in Navi Mumbai was at one point. The developers started breathing down the government’s neck. Something had to be done. That was when the government amended the Rent Control Act, making life difficult for tenants in Nariman Point.”

Under the new Maharashtra Rent Control Act of 2000, which replaced the Bombay Rent Control Act of 1947, the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation was given the powers to fix the property tax for a building on the rateable value as opposed to standard rent. This meant the BMC taxed landlords based on the value of their building and property tax shot up to 112 per cent of the rent. And when they had to pay higher taxes, the landlords started passing this burden on to the licencee.

“No company wants an open-ended liability,” said another businessman, who owns commercial
buildings in Nariman Point. “Though many societies disputed this change in the law, the government had virtually made Nariman Point unattractive for companies.” Thus began the shift to BKC, which started filling out in the mid-2000s and by 2009 hadfirmly established itself as Mumbai’s central business district.

THE SCATTERING
Though BKC’s ascendency grew unabated through 2009-2011, this year has seen the beginning of a new trend. Mumbai now has not one but several business and commercial hubs – The Malad-Andheri belt in the western suburbs, Lower Parel-Prabhadevi-Worli axis in central Mumbai and the Thane-Navi Mumbai area in the eastern suburbs.

“This is one more trend we are seeing,” said Nair. “This year saw Mumbai get two very solid central secondary business districts. Companies looking at low cost and large spaces prefer the Western suburbs. And Parel today offers a lot of good quality commercial space; 3,000 sq ft in a Nariman Point building would get you at best one parking lot, whereas Parel will give you three, and at a much lower cost.”

This year saw companies rent about seven million sq ft in Mumbai, according to Balbir Singh Khalsa, national director, Knight Frank India. Nariman Point accounted for a mere 1.5 per cent. Lower Parel and Andheri accounted for 20 per cent each, and BKC’s share was 30 per cent. But the most space rented this year was in Thane-Navi Mumbai, which accounted for 35 per cent.

“Thane-Navi Mumbai, being in the sub-Rs 50 per sq ft bracket, is the most attractive place for entrepreneurs and small businessmen,” said Khalsa. “Thus, while BKC still houses the financial giants, Lower Parel is attracting the media industry and companies from the lower end of the financial spectrum. Almost anybody who interacts with customers directly goes to the Western suburbs. And the BPOs, KPOs, start-ups and those into back-end services for whom rent is an important factor are going to the eastern suburbs.” That has left Nariman Point with small family businesses, legal firms and self-employed professionals like lawyers and chartered accountants.

THE FUTURE
So what next for Nariman Point? Real estate experts see the downward trend accelerating in the next couple of years. “We expect vacancies in Nariman Point increasing,” said Nair.

Rental and capital values will gradually come down. And we foresee societies slowly coming together to discuss redevelopment.” Khalsa agreed the trend will continue.

“There are no new buildings coming up. Even as vacancies increase, people will keep moving out depending on the cost structure and there won’t be many people coming in,” he said. Based on this trend, the future of Nariman Point will go down one of two paths. The first possibility is that the present decline will continue for a few more years, forcing owners to think out of the box.

They may come to a consensus that they can’t let buildings lie vacant\ and decide to go for redevelopment. What was envisioned as the financial capital’s central business district may become a residential enclave full of gated communities for the rich.

Khalsa thinks this is most likely what will happen to Nariman Point in the next few years. “There is demand for top-class residential buildings,” he said. “South Mumbai is still the place to be for the influential. So with its sea view, exclusivity, and what not, Nariman Point will be an important location.”

The other option before Nariman Point will need a bit of government intervention, of the kind that nudged people towards BKC 10 years ago. If the government decides to give a fresh lease of life to Nariman Point and ensures better connectivity from the suburbs, then the business – albeit small and medium enterprises that will find it attractive – may come flocking back. It will not be the same as it was till a few years ago, but it will still be a commercial district of note.
“I don’t see any reason why this can’t happen,” said the businessman. “The courts are here, the seat of government is here. And the government banks are here. So, if your business has anything to do with the courts, finances, or the government, which is almost all business, then there is still a chance that Nariman Point can become a formidable business district. But the government needs to ensure that it doesn’t take more than 45 minutes to reach from Panvel or elsewhere. After all, two million people enter and leave Manhattan every day. Why can’t the same happen in Mumbai?”















Sunday, December 16, 2012

irani restaurant notice board of old bombay/mumbai



No talking to cashier/No smoking/ No fighting/ No credit/ No outside food/ No sitting long/ No talking loud/ No spitting/ No bargaining/ No water to outsiders/ No change/ No telephone/ No match sticks/ No discussing gambling/ No newspaper/ No combing/ No beef/ No leg on chair/ No hard liquor allowed/ No address enquiry/” By order.
Image result for No talking to cashier/No smoking/ No fighting/ No credit/ No outside food/ No sitting long/ No talking loud/ No spitting/ Nom
 


The board at Yazdani. Pic from fravahr.org 



Yazdani BakeryYazdani bakes 6,000 pav bread buns a day.

 Yazdani BakeryKhari biscuits, yet another year-round Yazdani specialty.

 Yazdani BakeryVintage everything -- fans, menu board and advertising art.





MUMBAI: The recent reopening of an iconic cafe in South Mumbai had us put the nostalgia broth on the front burner. In a city where fickle tastebuds, combined with an equally fickle hospitality industry, have together ensured the expiration of several old favourites, the broth, as you can imagine, had many takers.

Cartoonist Hemant Morparia finds that places with character are increasingly rare. "Either one has to endure global levels of standardisation with places like Starbucks. Or then you have places where you have to pay an arm and a leg. Both these options are unpalatable. It makes more sense to have friends over for food," he says.

Morparia's list of old Mumbai favourites includes, Cafe Naaz, Malabar Hill and Brabourne Restaurant, Dhobi Talao. He elaborates, "Naaz was a part of the city's topography. It had character and it was accessible. These days you're enclosed everywhere you go, Naaz was open and how. That view from Naaz was unparalleled. Brabourne, owned by film critic Rashid Irani, also made for an interesting visit. You could either hobnob with a local drunkard or talk with films with Irani."

Film-maker Saeed Mirza who currently shuttles between Mumbai and Goa, recalls, "Over the years I've seen a lot of places go away. Even now, I remember Gourdon very fondly; it used be in the vicinity of Gaylord Restaurant. I had many long conversations with Vijay Tendulkar there." Mirza also cites Wayside Inn at Kala Ghoda and Pyrkes at Flora Fountain as old favourites that are no longer around. He adds wistfully, "There's a lot in this city I'd like to see revived."

Actor, writer and director Makrand Deshpande speaks fondly of the unostentatious Cafe Mailoo, a former theatre adda. He says, "It hasn't really shut down but it has changed a great deal. It used to be open to the road and humble. Now they've taken all the charm out of it and put in an air-conditioner instead. It feels so closed; nothing of the old place survives."

While the baida curry at Mailoo was a huge hit, the waiter who took the orders is memorable too. Deshpande remarks, "This straight-faced muchhad guy in long pyjamas would walk around taking our orders. We would go there whenever we through with a rehearsal or a performance. Mailoo remained open till 1.30 pm and was always busy with people from the Gujarati, Hindi and Marathi theatre scene." When asked about the missing English theatrewallas, Deshpande laughs and responds, "Vile Parle (East) was not their scene, yaar."

Mailoo's proximity to Dinanath Mangeshkar Natya Griha and Bhaidas Hall worked in its favour. Discussing the atmosphere Deshpande states, "Theatre professionals and amateurs were there in equal numbers. Bumping into theatre biggies was also not out of the ordinary. Recently someone suggested we go there for old times' sake and I refused because it's just not the same any more."

Riyaaz Amlani, CEO and MD, Impresario Entertainment and Hospitality, which owns Salt Water Cafe and the Mocha chain of coffee shops, wouldn't mind seeing The Wayside Inn and Bastani and Co, Dhobi Talao, get resurrected. He says, "Wayside Inn had so much history; Dr Ambedkar drafted our Constitution there; surely that accounts for something. I also miss bun maska at Bastani."

Incidentally Amlani's Mocha lists bun maska on its menu but it doesn't have the notice board from Bastani. Like all Irani cafes, the notice urged patrons of the legendary eatery to not smoke, not fight, not spit, not talk loudly and the like. The notice board at Bastani caught poet Nissim Ezekiel's attention and he wrote a poem on it. While Bastani was a favourite of Ezekiel, The Wayside Inn is invoked in Arun Kolatkar's Kala Ghoda Poems. Poets have long since stopped dedicating entire poems to Mumbai's cafes and with good reason too. 


A 20-feet high viewing gallery to be built atop Malabar Hill where the much-romanced, much-filmed Naaz open-air restaurant once stood





The much-missed Naaz open-air restaurant atop Malabar Hill, that played host to many a budding love story and afforded an unparalleled view of the Queen's Necklace and Girgaum Chowpatty for several years before it was shut in 2000, is staging a comeback in a new avatar.

In six month's time, 20-feet-high twin viewing galleries will rise where a rather forlorn looking ground-plus-one structure that housed the restaurant famous for its hot samosas and tea now stands. While the view from the restaurant was restricted only to Marine Drive, the sight from the viewing gallery, because of its height, will be 360* and will cover the majestic Hanging Gardens too.

The Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation, which has set aside Rs 23.80 lakh for the project, plans to provide binoculars to the visitors at the viewing ramp for a small fee. The 600 sq feet ramp comprising the twin galleries will have glass railings and minimalist seating, making it almost merge with the lush green of Malabar Hill.

“Mumbai lacks an observatory like the one that exists atop the Empire State building in New York. Though the viewing ramp will be only 20-feet high, remember it will stand atop Malabar Hill. The view will be stunning and I think tourists visiting Mumbai deserve it,” said Additional Municipal Commissioner Manu Kumar Srivastava.

The design for the viewing galleries, christened Vantage Point by the BMC, has been approved. A staircase will be built at the footpath in front of the existing structure to take the visitor to the galleries. This will eliminate any interference with the work of BMC's Hydraulic Department that has a facility under the spot where the ramp will be built.

Naaz in its heyday was a favourite with the Bollywood and television industry. Dozens of movies, including Aaashiqui, Sadak, Aatish and Parinda, were shot here.

Would the BMC allow film shoots again at the spot? “This has not been discussed. But I guess with permission from competent authorities that should be possible,” said a BMC official requesting anonymity.

The corporation, however, has no plan to allow any eatery on the ramp. So, those wanting to sip a drink while imbibing the shimmer and glitter of Queen’s Necklace as they did when Naaz was in business, it's going to be a bit of a disappointment.



 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


BOMBAY TO SONAPUR HAI* 3: Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao



Kyani is now 103 years old; we are supposed to be the oldest Irani cafe still operating.
AFLATOON SHOKRIYE

My name is Aflatoon Khodadad Shokriye. Khodadad is my fathers name, Shokriye is our family name. Aflatoon Khodadad Shokriye. I came to Bombay from the city of Yazd in Iran in 1948. My father was here, he sent me a visa, student visa to study here. At that time I was 18 years old.



Image: Passenger docks, Karachi Port, ca 1940


The trip was during monsoon, up to Quetta it was OK- we went from Yazd to Kerman, Kerman to Zahedan, Zahedan to Quetta. From Quetta again we came to Karachi, from Karachi we came by steamer to Mumbai. I was along with some three, four people from Yazd. One was aged like my father, and he was our neighbour in Yazd, his son was there and another fellow was there of my age. It was a journey I will never forget. Ever. More tham one week of travelling.





Image: Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao, 2007


So it was monsoon, and in Bombay it was raining, and raining, so many things which I was not used to! Day and night it was raining. That is why I was repenting! And the food! Indian food it is, what you call, hot food. But in our own restaurants we used to make the Iranian type of food.
When I arrived in Bombay I was repenting why I came - the Britishers had left and even at that time the hygienic conditions were not good. I thought Iran was better. I was new, I did not know language, no friends and all so I did not like it. Slowly, slowly I changed. The local people were friendly, good people. When they knew that I did not know the language, they used to talk more to me, and I picked up the language.

Image: Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao, ca 1980

My father was here at Kyani, my son is the third generation that are running this restaurant, so this is a kind of family restaurant, established 1904 by my father Khodadad and his brother Khodamorad. Here then it was all Iranis working here. It was an institution, like Iranis, what you call it, it was like a training college!;they used to come and learn business, how to prepare, how to do business, and other things, and they used to go and make partnership with others and start their own business, set up their own Irani café.

In 1948 in Dhobi Talao Parsis were everywhere, Parsis and Christians. But, uh, slowly, slowly Parsis have migrated out of India, many of them died, many of them they did not get married, the population came down.
Image: Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao, ca 1980

My father told me that the Iranis when they came here, they were working in the Parsi's houses, they were employed and worked in there, and uh, in the morning they used to meet, they would gather and discuss about life and things, so one fellow started preparing tea for the rest, but he used to charge them. So the idea of making tea came to the mind of the Iranis, so they started this tea business and all. By 1948, when I arrived, at every junction almost there was an Irani. They all selected those junctions, those street corners. Because the junctions are one, two, three sides of the road. Anything that was available they used to take.
Falooda - "..a gift from the Iranis to the people of India" says Aflatoon

Today our customers are a cosmopolitan mix - all types of people. Formerly it was mainly Christians and Parsis, the majority. But now, it is cosmopolitan. You cannot stop anybody entering your restaurant. It is a rule of the government, law. In those days you see, the customer was a different type of culture. Tie, coat and all. Hindus of high standard also used to come here. But majority were Parsis and Christians.

In years past Bombay was very safe and we used stop sometimes at 12 o’clock (midnight), but slowly, slowly we have reduced. Because at night people are in a different category in Bombay, they are different. People sometimes make trouble at night. So now we are closing it at 9 o’clock.

I think our regulars appreciate that we have stayed open, offering this type of service- we get people coming who were our customers some ten years back, fifteen years back, they have gone to America, or UK, Canada, then ten years later they come to Kyani, and they are so happy to see us, that we have maintained the same type of restaurant. I tell you, one year I went to America - there was a gathering - all Parsis, Iranis, and as soon as they saw me they said “ohh, Kyani, he has come from Kyani in Bombay”. I couldn’t believe it. Incredible how many people remembered Kyani.
Image: Badam, Butterscotch, Khari, Coconut Jam,Ginger, Cheese Wafers... - Kyani & Co., 2007
Changes? In about 1952 an Irani had a café, and this man used to put kus-kus (poppy) in the tea. And believe it or not, the taxiwallahs who were running the taxi, they used to go there and take their tea always, otherwise they were not happy with their tea. Then one by one, all the cafes started kus-kus tea, we had it here at Kyani, finally the Municipality came to know about it and they stopped it. It is prohibited. The Municipality will take your license and you have to go behind the bar if you tried that now. When Britishers were here, they were foreigners, we Iranis were also foreigners, we got friendly treatment when we went to the government departments; they knew that we were new here, we were also foreigners, so they said “you have to stop putting that in the tea”, and we did.
Image: Kyani & Co, 2007

In the past, people from offices, from Fountain, from Colaba, they used to come to Dhobi Talao, because there were two big shops selling confectionary – Bastani and Kyani - across the road from each other. Now there is only Kyani, so they go wherever they like to buy their requirements. Bastani closing has affected our business, you see. The nature of the business at Bastani was the same as Kyani. When it was there it was better. The movement of the people is now restricted. When Bastani was still there lots of people used to come from outside – they would maybe buy their sweets at one place, and just walk across the road and have their tea at the other.
Image: Bastani, Dhobi Talao, ca 1980

Kyani is now 103 years old, we are supposed to be the oldest Irani café still operating. We had to make my sons Farookh and Farad partners in the business; I am old now, any moment I may leave to go.

FROM an interview with Aflatoon Shokriye, Dhobi Talao, Mumbai, April 2007.
*Bombay to sonapur hai - Bombay is the city of gold.

==========================================================================



Arun Kolatkar pictured at the Wayside Inn, Kala Ghoda, Bombay, 1995 (photo: Madhu Kapparath). 

Kala Ghoda Square.

The name Kala Ghoda (काळा घोडा in Marathi), meaning black horse, came from the black stone statue of King Edward VII mounted on a horse which used to stand in Kala Ghoda Square.