Bombay Photo Images[ Mumbai]

Thursday, February 3, 2011

TRAVEL BY SHIP BEFORE 1960-- BOMBAY TO LONDON,EUROPE,CALCUTTA,GOA

The Asiatic Steam Company,  employed a large percentage of local Officers that included Indian, Anglo-Indian, Burmese and Anglo-Burmese.an apprentice in 1946 EARNED:-In the first year of his apprenticeship he was paid 15 Rupees per month, the second year 30 Rupees a month, third year 45 Rupees rising to 60 Rupees for the fourth year. The deck crew did not come from the Maldives but from the Laccadives, more specifically Minicoy Island which is about 200 miles west of Cochin, the engineroom crew came from the Nhoakali District of East Bengal (now Bangladesh), carpenters were Chinese and the cabin stewards were from Calcutta. The crew did not eat Curry and potatoes for breakfast but enjoyed a balanced diet including Mutton, vegetables and Rice and like all ships crewed by their ilk ‘live’ supplies were also carried for their consumption such as chickens and sheep which were slaughtered as required because the ships had no refrigerators, running water or air conditioning.MAHARANI.

Bombay Photo Images[ Mumbai]: jer mahal at the Junction of Kalbadevi Road &  Girgaon and the Goan history in bombay













Bombay Photo Images[ Mumbai]: jer mahal ...
oldphotosbombay.blogspot.com



Asiatic Steam Navigation Company
This company was formed in 1878 the Liverpool Merchants, Turner & Co. and their Calcutta associates, Turner, Morrison & Co. to operate cargo and passenger services in the Bay of Bengal. Although owned and registered in the U.K, the company's ships were based in Calcutta and rarely returned to Britain.
Trade was initially coastal between Calcutta, Ceylon, Bombay and numerous smaller ports, but this was soon extended to Chittagong, Rangoon and Moulmein. Further expansion took place in 1892 when a route between Calcutta and Java via Malayan ports was opened. The Indian Government mail contract to the Andaman Islands was won which also entailed the transportation of convicts to the penal settlement at Port Blair.
Five ships were lost during the Great War and eight during World War II. In 1935 a controlling interest in A.S.N.Co. was acquired by British India S.N. Co. After the independence of India, the Java - India sugar and Burma - India rice trades were lost and in 1961 the remaining shares in the company were bought by the P & O group and the company was later fully absorbed into P & O.
Many thanks to Ted Finch for his assistance in collecting this data. The following list was extracted from various sources. This is not an all inclusive list but should only be used as a guide. If you would like to know more about a vessel, visit the Ship Descriptions (onsite) or Immigrant Ship web site.
Funnel:
Buff.
Fleet:
Vessel Built Years in Service Tons
Bahadur (1) 1907 1928 sold to Kassos S.N.Co., Syria renamed Ioannis E. Yannaghas. 4,646
Bahadur (2) 1929 7th Apr.1942 torpedoed, shelled and sunk by submarine 170 miles NW from Bombay. 5,424
Bahadur (3) 1948 1970 sold to Alvin Maritime S.A, Panama renamed Alvin. 5,497
Begum (1) 1907 29th May 1918 torpedoed and sunk 270 miles SW from Bishop Rock. 4,646
Begum (2) 1922 1953 scrapped Blyth. 5,843
Dogra 1914 1935 scrapped Japan. 5,138
Havildar (1) 1911 1936 scrapped Japan. 4,911
Havildar (2) 1940 1960 sold to China Pacific Nav. Co., Hong Kong renamed Amoy. 5,407
Kohinur (1) 1884 1904 sold to T. Yamagata, Kobe renamed Kohina Maru. 2,967
Kohinur (2) 1905 25th May 1917 torpedoed and sunk 150 miles North from Alexandria. 2,265
Kohinur (3) 1922 15th Nov.1940 torpedoed and sunk 250 miles South from Freetown. 5,168
Mahadevi 1943 1962 sold to Shipping Corp. of India, Bombay renamed Nalanda. 5,459
Maharaja (1) 1879 1904 sold to Un Lai Chen, Hong Kong, wrecked same year. 1,666
Maharaja (2) 1904 1926 renamed Maharani, 1927 sold to Machida Shokai KK, Kobe renamed Zuisho Maru. 2,264
Maharaja (3) 1927 1956 sold to Ebony SS Co. (Wheelock Marden & Co.), Hong Kong renamed Jennifer. 2,895
Maharani (1) 1879 1908 scrapped Bombay. 1,667
Maharani (2)   see Maharaja (2)  
Malika 1943 1962 sold to Shipping Corp. of India, Bombay renamed Ajanta. 5,469
Nadir (1) 1889 1912 sold to T. Uda, Hamadera renamed Temmei Maru. 3,142
Nadir (2) 1944 1961 sold to China Pacific Nav. Co., Hong Kong renamed Kulangsu. 5,497
Nairung (1) 1892 1914 sold to Bombay & Persia S.N. Co., Bombay. 4,425
Nairung (2) 1942 18th Aug.1944 torpedoed and sunk by U.862 off Madagascar. 5,414
Nawab (1) 1889 1912 sold to A. M. Jeevanjee & Co., Bombay renamed Taiyabi. 3,142
Nawab (2) 1915 1949 scrapped India. 5,430
Nizam (1) 1890 1911 sold to Y. Hachiuma, Nishinomiya renamed Tamon Maru No.12. 3,142
Nizam (2) 1914 1949 scrapped India. 5,322
Nurani (1) 1892 1914 sold to Bombay & Persia S.N. Co., Bombay. 4,432
Nurani (2) 1941 1960 sold to Hai An Shipping Co., Hong Kong renamed Hui An. 5,414
Nurjahan (1) 1884 21st Nov.1890 wrecked near Cape Comorin on voyage Bombay - Calcutta. 2,967
Nurjahan (2) 1923 1953 scrapped Bo'ness. 5,424
Nurmahal (1) 1923 11th Nov.1942 torpedoed and sunk 200 miles NE from Barbados on voyage Table Bay - New York. 5,419
Nurmahal (2) 1959 1965 transferred to British India S.N.Co., 1972 owned by P & O Lines, 1975 renamed Strathnewton, 1977 scrapped. 8,628
Pasha (1) 1902 15th Jun.1917 torpedoed and sunk in Straits of Messina. 5,930
Pasha (2) 1919 laid down as War Chamois but completed as Pasha, 1950 scrapped Bombay. 5,307
Peshwa 1880 24th Jun.1890 wrecked on Pilot's Ridge on voyage Calcutta - Rangoon. 2,159
Pundit (1) 1902 9th Jun.1918 torpedoed and sunk 85 miles NW from Alexandria. 5,917
Pundit (2) 1919 laid down as War Moose but completed as Pundit, 1949 scrapped Bombay. 5,305
Rajah (1) 1899 1923 sold to Katsura Kisen KK, Dairen renamed Katsura Maru. 5,622
Rajah (2) 1949 1971 sold to Pac-Trade Navigation Co., Panama renamed Amanda. 5,791
Rajput (1) 1900 1923 sold to Nakamurs Kisen Goshi Kaisha, Dairen renamed Unkai Maru No.12. 5,628
Rajput (2) 1925 1952 sold to Hokkaido Gyogyo Kosha KK, Hakodaye renamed Terutama Maru. 5,521
Ranee (1) 1899 1924 sold to A. Th. Callinicos, Ithaca renamed Theodorus. 5,660
Ranee (2) 1928 5th Feb.1941 mined and sunk in Suez Canal. 5,060
Ranee (3) 1950 1971 sold to Madrigal Shipping Co., Manila renamed Santa Susana. 5,791
Risaldar (1) 1912 1937 scrapped Rosyth. 4,919
Risaldar (2) 1940 1958 sold to Muhammadi SS Co., Karachi renamed Al Ahmadi. 5,407
Shahjehan (1) 1878 1905 sold to Lik Shek Pang, Calcutta, 1906 renamed Pheumpenh. 1,650
Shahjehan (2) 1905 1934 scrapped Calcutta. 2,261
Shahjehan (3) 1942 6th Jul.1943 torpedoed and sunk 150 miles NE from Benghazi. 5,454
Shahjehan (4) 1946 1962 sold to Hai An Shipping Co., Hong Kong renamed Nan An. 5,460
Shahzada (1) 1879 1904 sold to Un Lai Chen, Hong Kong. 1,666
Shahzada (2) 1904 14th Jul.1927 sank 40 miles off Sandheads on voyage Calcutta - Akyab. 2,246
Shahzada (3) 1942 9th Jul.1944 torpedoed and sunk 500 miles West from Goa. 5,454
Shahzada (4) 1946 1962 sold to Shipping Corp. of India, Bombay renamed Sanchi. 5,460
Sikh 1914 1934 scrapped Japan. 5,150
Subadar (1) 1912 27th Jul.1918 torpedoed and sunk 112 miles NW Cabo Roca. 4,911
Subadar (2) 1929 13th Feb.1942 bombed and sunk by Japanese in Banka Strait. 5,424
Subadar (3) 1949 1964 sold to Bacong Shipping Co., Panama renamed Southern Express. 5,497

Image result for The Asiatic Steam Company ss maharani

Mumbai to Goa Ship services to resume after 26 years













Mumbai to Goa Ship services to resume ...
itsgoa.com


Asiatic Steam Company,
 Formed in 1878,ships were registered in either London or Liverpool its principle port of operation was Calcutta. Like British India’s eastern service ships once they had departed the United Kingdom they were never to return. The new company enjoyed the patronage of Messrs Thomas H. Ismay and William Imrie of Ismay, Imrie & Company, managers of Oceanic Steam Navigation Company known in the shipping world as the
White Star Line. 
NURJAHAN.

Image result for Asiatic Steam Company NURJEHAN 1884 1890
NURJAHAN PASSENGER/CARGO SHIP 1884-1890 ...
wrecksite.eu


Built: 1884 by Harland & Wolff Ltd, of Belfast.
Tonnage: 2,967 grt, 1,936 nt.
Wrecked near Cape Comorin whilst on passage Bombay to Calcutta on the 21st of November 1890.

The company increased its fleet to five in 1880 when Peshwa the company’s first 2,000 tonner was launched and two years later a further two ships were added to its number on the completion of Nurjahan and Kohinur the company’s first all steel ships.



Disaster at Sea: SS Vaitarna - India's Forgotten 'Titanic'

www.livehistoryindia.com › 2017/04/29 › indias-titanic
Apr 29, 2017 — In 1888, a massive passenger ship, the SS Vaitarna, sank off the coast of Gujarat ... cargo and passengers between the Mandvi port in Kutch and Bombay. ... It is believed that more than 1000 people were on board, when the Vijli sank after it sailed into a severe storm. ... Fort Tiracol: An Ode to Goa's Patriots.

NADIRImage result for Asiatic Steam Company NADIR 1889


Built: 1889 by Harland & Wolff Ltd, Belfast.
Tonnage: 3,142 grt, 2,041 nt.
Engine: Single screw, Triple expansion by builder.
The company decided to increase its sphere of trading and began operating services to Java and was also successful in tendering a contract with the Government to carry mails to the Andaman Islands, however there was a downside, they 

also became responsible for the transportation of convicts to the penal settlement at Port Blair situated on South Andaman.

Image result for Asiatic Steam Company PRISON CELL BELOW DECK

Below decks showing the cells in the convict prison ship success


PRISON CELLS BELOW DECK


By now Ceylon and Malaya had entered onto the company’s trade routes with principle cargoes being made up of teak, coal, sugar, rice and of course its usual carriage of native deck passengers.
Image result for PRISON CELLS BELOW DECKOn board a prison hulk 1848 CONVICTS - AUSTRALIA -  Below decks in a typical convict transportation ship - Stock Image

On 8 February 1872, the Viceroy of India, Lord Mayo, was assassinated at Hopetown, Port Blair, Andaman Islands, by a convict, a Pathan from the North West Frontier Province of India named Sher Ali Afridi. The murder of the Viceroy, the supreme official of India appointed by British, sent shock waves throughout Britain and British India.

- Image ID: H3W25P
  On 8 February 1872, the Viceroy of India, Lord Mayo, was assassinated at Hopetown,  Port  Blair,  Andaman  Islands, Stock Photo


 
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SHIP BEEDLE 1890

DECK PASSENGERS MIDSHIP
©D. BEEDLE.



DECK PASSENGERS TWEEN DECK. ©D. BEEDLE.


hindenburg
car
titanic
pullman
cabin
ship
class
star
steerage passengers
white
ms roald
railroad
pullman sleeping
roald amundsen
hurtigruten

Search Results

Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Steerage Passengers - Emigrants Between ...
norwayheritage.com
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Steerage Conditions - A Report of the ...
gjenvick.com
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Steerage Passengers - Emigrants Between ...
norwayheritage.com
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Steerage Passengers - Emigrants Between ...
norwayheritage.com
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Steerage Passengers - Emigrants Between ...
norwayheritage.com
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Steerage Passengers - Emigrants Between ...
norwayheritage.com
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Conditions in Steerage - Then and Now ...
gjenvick.com
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Steerage Passengers - Emigrants Between ...
norwayheritage.com
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Steerage Passengers - Emigrants Between ...
norwayheritage.com
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
Steerage (deck) - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
Image result for DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS. 1900
DECK PASSENGERS SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS.
 
Passengers on board a P&O liner.

DECK CARGO OF BUFFALO

Cargo Deck Of A Boat Arabela I Editorial Stock Photo - Image of amazon,  market: 131782293





Cargo Deck Of A Boat Arabela I ...


Travelling From Bombay To Goa By Steamer In The '60s & '70s
  Lars Erlandsson
  • By Wilfred Barretto | Posted Mar 13 2017

Remember those long car journeys you took with your family as kids, backpacks stuffed with chips and treats, loo breaks and daal fry at the dhaba pit stops? Being from a landlocked city in the north, driving up through the hills, windows down (with your mother occasionally yelling at you to get your head back inside the car), it seems like a distant memory of another time.

In our age of instant gratification, we often lose out on these little splendours of life. At the drop of a hat we grab our phones, and using some app or the other, book a ticket out of whichever city we’re in. Taking a train journey for most has become the cheaper, but more tedious process. We forget that there was a time when just heading on out to Goa at a moment’s notice for the weekend wasn’t as easy as getting a cheap flight but a 24-hour-long journey by steamboat along the coast. Mention this travel trail to a member of the older generation and their eyes will sparkle with nostalgia. Onboard the two Konkan Ships - Konkan Shakti and Konkan Sevak - it was a microscopic world of its own, a melting pot of cultures and mixed faces. In this era of mass air travel, we thought who better to take us on this merry trip down memory lane than someone who has experienced it first hand. Wilfred Barretto writes on his incredible experience on the steamer heading from Bombay to Goa. We see the majesty of the waves, feel the heat of Sun’s rays as they bounce off the wooden deck, and a kaleidoscope of people travelling as a harmonious group, picnic baskets in hand.

[The following text was first seen on Wilfred Barretto’s website, and has been re-published here with permission from the author.]

I still remember the days when my father would take us every summer to Divar Island (Goa) from Wadala, Bombay - by steamer. Back in the sixties, seventies, and till 1991, there was a pair of steamers which used to ply from Bombay to Goa, carrying loads of passengers on a charming journey along the Konkan coastline. One was called the Konkan Sevak and the other the Konkan Shakti; one left from Goa for Bombay and the other from Bombay for Goa at 10:00 AM.

What an exciting trip that used to be! The passengers were a motley group of Goans, tourists, hippies and Konkan coast travellers - all in a festive, picnic-like mood. Out would come guitars and other instruments, along with packed food, and it would be one long party all the way. The ship would make various stops at Vengurla, Malvan, Ratnagiri, among other places, to take on more passengers who would arrive in large hand-rowed canoes. There would then take the disembarking passengers. Most old timers who have experienced these journeys feel very nostalgic.The entire experience was a thrill to the boot, something today’s journeys to Goa by plane, train or bus don’t give you. And all that for a small price.

Konkan Shakti photographed by Lars Erlandsson
Konkan Shakti photographed by Lars Erlandsson

There were a few cabins for those who wanted privacy and were willing to pay a high price. Then there was an upper deck for those who could afford it, and a lower deck for everybody else. You bought your ticket at ferry wharf (Dockyard Road - Mazagaon) and stood in a long line waiting for the gates to the gangplank to open. Once they did you ran clutching your bedsheets, trying to spread them out on the life rafts that were spread out on the deck - this staked your claim. The ship would sound its foghorn and the great voyage would commence.
You would settle in and eye your neighbours who a half hour ago you would have run off the gangplank and quarrelled if they stood in your way. Now, you open your alcohol bottles and lunch packs, and invite them to share. The Goan spirit will slowly begin to show. You’d see guys strumming guitars, and some young Goan boys even getting friendly with Goan girls. There is singing in some corners with spirits getting a bit high by midday. You would definitely see a lot ‘hippies’ on these journeys, travelling to goa haversack, guitars et al. A typical sight during those days.

The ‘bucket man’ comes around with a bucket piled high with Limca’s and Thums Up, and in his many pockets he has quarts of Feni. These Feni bottles would sell at Goa prices, even though you can still see the Gateway in the distance. The bell is sounded for lunch in the canteen. You get fish curry and rice with fish that tasted so fresh they probably jumped straight out of the Arabian Sea and into the kitchen.

The passengers take turns to eat in the canteen. You bought your coupon for a lunch service and carried your Feni to the table with you. The ship would meander along the Konkan coast all this while. Occasionally, one would spot dolphins along the route.

A man would come around announcing Housie and everyone who was tired of looking at pristine beaches, at swaying coconut trees, at the rise and swell of the sea would head for the mess, now cleared of fish curry and rice. Tickets would be sold, the electrical engineer would be deputed to call out the numbers. The Housie would get underway with Jalsi fives lines and full houses helping to defray the cost of your ticket.

Back onto the deck to watch the sunset, while this little world unto itself chugged on towards Goa. The bucket man had run out of Limca so now you were drinking Feni with nimbu pani and after the third peg of Feni the talk turned to God and love and who made the best Goan sausages. Goan spirit at its best, again!

Along the Konkan coast, towards the late night, the ship reached its port of call it would pull a little closer to the coast. Little canoes would come out from the harbours of Vijaydurg, Sindhusurgh, Jaigadh and Ratnagiri to ferry the passengers to these port. They would get down on a rope ladder along the side of the ship. The ladies making sure their saree didn’t snag in the rungs. With the passengers having disembarked at their destination, the ship would sail again along the coast line towards Panaji, Goa.

Onboard the Konkan Sevak, photographed by Lars Erlandsson
Onboard the Konkan Sevak, photographed by Lars Erlandsson

Dinner was announced in the now familiar, like your own house, dining hall cum housie room. Back to the deck post dinner where the rosary would commence -all five decades - the whole litany. Petitions at the end for everyone and everything, including Fluffy whom the neighbours were looking after, because they didn’t allow dogs on the ship.

The life rafts that had doubled up as card tables, bar counters and nappy changing tables, were now converted into beds. And you lay your weary head to rest. Somewhere in the night we’d pass the sister ship, a toot from one Captain to the other would let him know all was well with the world.

Sunrise would wake you up with smiles to everyone around you. Now you can see the silhouette of our beloved Goan coastline. Sand strewn beaches in the distance, lined with palm trees. What sight it was in the fresh morning air! Some of us will never forget the scenes, engraved in our heads forever.

Between 8:30 AM and 9:00 AM you were sailing past Chapora fort, then Anjuna, followed by Baga hills in the distance, with the Jesuit retreat house at its peak. Onwards to Calangute, and Candolim. Then around the Fort Anguada, and finally, a grand entry, up the Mandovi River, past the barges loaded with iron ore. A beautiful experience, etched forever in our memories!

It’s time to disembark - pack your stuff and exchange telephone numbers, addresses with the friends you just made last morning. And of course, promises to stay in touch, best wishes exchanged for the holidays and pending land disputes. Then there was another sight to watch; relatives waiting at the Panjim dock to receive visiting families, nephews, cousins, uncles, and what have you. As we step onto the jetty at Panjim, a sign of the cross and a prayer is mumbled in thanks for a safe and happy journey.

The two steamers - Konkan Shakti and Konkan Sevak were co-opted for the Sri Lanka War in the late 1980s, and the grand Goan party was over. One of them is now somewhere in the Andaman Islands. Although, Damania Shipping started a hovercraft service on the same route in 1994, it was never really the same thing, in every aspect, and the thrill you got in the old sea transport couldn’t be matched. Damania used a beautiful Scandinavian-built vessel, with aeroplane-style reclining seats. The trip from Bombay used to take seven hours to reach Panaji. The catamaran too, travelled around 40 km offshore, giving travellers a glimpse of the palm-fringed Konkan coast.

After the service’s last voyage in 1991 the two vessels that operated on the route were sent to ferry the armed forces to Sri Lanka at the behest of the late Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi.

Today, you will be lucky to find one Goan or a Goan family travelling with you in the same train, bus or flight. What surely makes the difference is the cultural aspects of us Goans.


August - The Great War, Day by Day - The Wartime Memories ...

wartimememoriesproject.com › greatwar › viewday
A new feature was the Verandah Café on the boat deck, where passengers ... With British India's Vasna and Varela she was one of the last hospital ships to be ...


VASNA at sea as a Hospital Ship P&ORef: PH-06090-00

© P&O Heritage Collection
Post a comment »

VASNA at sea as a Hospital Ship

In: All Photographs
Part of our Photographs gallery
Medium: Sepia Print
Description:
VASNA (1917) was utilised as ambulance transport ship when she entered service at the end of the First World War. In the Second World War she was the first British Hospital Ship to berth in Japan after VJ day and was used evacuate POWs to Sydney.
Featured Ship: VASNA (1917)
Shipping Line: BRITISH INDIA STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY LTD. Image result for BRITISH INDIA STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY LTD. PUNDIT
PUNDIT

Image result for STEAM SHIP PUNDIT 1919
PASHA/PUNDIT - ShipSpotting.com - Ship ...



shipspotting.com

©D. BEEDLE.

Built: 1919 by Swan, Hunter & Wigham Richardson, Ltd, Newcastle.
Tonnage: 5,305 grt, 3,199 nt.



BEGUM.


Photo dated November 1951.
©D. BEEDLE.

Built: 1922 by Lithgows, Ltd, Glasgow.
Tonnage: 5,843 grt, 3,656 nt.


NURJEHAN.


Related image

Built: 1923 by Charles Connell & Co., Ltd, Glasgow.


RAJPUT


Image result for STEAM SHIP RAJPUT 1947
Photograph dated July 1947


 MAHARAJA.




Image result for STEAM SHIP MAHARAJA 1940
Gutted Arcades of the Past: S.S. Maharaja
guttedarcades.blogspot.com
Image result for STEAM SHIP MAHARAJA 1940
Gutted Arcades of the Past: S.S. Maharaja
guttedarcades.blogspot.com


Photograph dated March 1956
 
15th of November 1940, Ranee  fell victim to a mine when in the Suez Canal on the 5th of February 1941.


RANEE SUNK IN SUEZ CANAL;


 Image result for STEAM SHIP RANEE SUNK IN SUEZ CANAL

AND

Shahzada

 

Image result for STEAM SHIP SHAHZADA
Shahzada (British Steam merchant ...
uboat.net
Image result for STEAM SHIP SHAHZADA
SHAHZADA CARGO SHIP 1942-1944 - WRECK ...
wrecksite.eu


Image result for STEAM SHIP SHAHZADA

lasted a year longer than her sister when she was sunk on the 9th of July 1944 by torpedo 500 miles west of Goa

BRITISH INDIA LINE

iancoombe.tripod.com › ...
She ultimately became B.I.'s first educational cruise ship. ... Most of the lifeboats were on 'A' deck together with much of the cabin class accommodation for ... The four 'V's - VARELA, VARSOVA, VITA and the





No comments:

BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 1825.1,400 miles in 25 DAYS, IN A PALANQUIN ,AMONG TIGERS AND DACOITS [.travelogue of 1845]

















ACROSS INDIA IN A PALKEE.

which brought out Sir Charles Napier, and he often used to
relate that he was the last through passenger wHo went by
Dak Palkee to Calcutta.




In 1870 I rode with Mr. Hay on horseback for several
hundred miles, and for a few weeks together, through Syria,
and had ample time and opportunity to ask him about this
mode of locomotion and as to how he stood the journey, but
it did not occur to me to do so, and thus much valuable
information was lost.

Source
“Traveling with a palanquin,”



The railway having now superseded this method of travelling — driven it into secluded districts, and so in a manner relegated it to ancient history — it is now my business to endeavour, by ploughing among dead men's bones,


to gather together some particulars about Palkee travelling to
Calcutta and elsewhere.

An English baby girl being carried on a palanquin by Indian bearers, on the road fo Nainital. Photograph dated 1904.

This was the mode which Mountstuart Elphinstone generally
adopted in his long journey from Calcutta to Poona in 1801,
and which touched up his liver so much that he felt the effects
of it during the rest of his life.
Scene in Bombay Plate 1

Heber, in 1824, rode on horse and camel-back a good part of the way, but occasionally adopted this method of travelling in his Mofussil journeys. Though
cra^nped, he found it neither violent nor unpleasant, but he could not sketch in a palanquin or read anything but large print.

But we must begin at the beginning. Posting by palkee was an organisation of the East India Company, and was entirely under the control of the Postal Department or the District Collectors,

and early in " the forties," or, to be particular, say in 1845,. if you intended proceeding from Bombay to Calcutta by this mode of conveyance you had to put
yourself in communication with the head of the Postal Department at least ten days before the date of your intended departure, giving him your destination, with many other particulars (which we will endeavour to relate), such as the
exact day and hour of your intended departure from Bombay.




You elect, we will suppose, the route by Poona, Hyderabad,
Vizagapatam, Masulipatam, and Cuttack. Very well. As
there are close upon a hundred halting stations,

you will require to state how long you intend halting at each of them, and the
names of the stations you intend to halt at, stating whether
for sleep or refreshment. You are a " stout " party, this word
meaning in those days Not corpulent but robust, and intend to
do the journey in twenty-two days.* You know what palkee travelling is.

You have gone to Love Grove, Worlee, we will suppose, five miles, and have emerged as stiff as a poker. Bear in mind your intendedjourney is one of 500 hours' duration.

If it is in April or May you will journey mostly by night and rest
during the day. The reason why the Postmaster requires all
these particulars is that the laying down a dak to Calcutta
involves an immense correspondence, and the route covers
nearly 1,400 miles.
Saint Thomas's Church, Bombay.


You will please to remember the hamals are
in sets, and go only a certain mileage, that they are drawn from
their homes, which lie at distances from the halting stations,
and that in the Nizam's dominions every hamal starts from
Hyderabad, or says he does so, to its remotest boundary, and
that you, a traveller, will require to pay these hamals every
day their wages from the day they are supposed to leave their
homes until they return thereto

. You will require changes of
linen and clothing, so you are allowed two banghy bardars, who
will swing on their shoulders your kit, not more than fifty-six
pounds

. Brandy goes into narrow compass — you must depend
upon beer where you can find it, and you will require to pay
through the nose for it in these distant regions, owing to the
expense of carriage.



If your period is the rains, be thankful if you escape  malaria,
or if in the hot weather, sunstroke.It may be your last journey,

and the palanquin may become your catafalque ;certainly, even in our day the dead body of a traveller has been taken out of a palkee. I have not alluded to the crossing of rivers or the danger of being drowned in a box, or surprised by
a tiger.

Your bearers drop their burden like lightning, and
make tracks for the nearest tree, or bumping against some rock
in the dark you are shot out of your tabernacle like a catapult,
your Venetian along with you ; happily for you if you fall among
the yielding branches of some bush, scrub or tree ; or you are

attacked by dacoitswho hunt in gangs, plundered and left dead
or wounded in the jungle, or, may be, confronted by a swollen
river. A man has just told us that his bearers once deserted
him, and that he had to haul his palkee for four days on a
country cart.

These are contingencies you must face, and I warn you that Government by public notification held them- selves free of all responsibility for you or for your luggage.

You may read the notice up in every post office " that neither
Government nor any of their officers are responsible to the
traveller for the misfortunes and disappointments which are
insepai'able from dak travelling ; thus every traveller travels at
his own risk,and is liable to the losses and increased expenses
incidental to delays and accidents, and Government can in
no instance be considered liable to make good any losses
whatever."

" When a private gentleman requires bearers to be posted
for him, he should be very particular in stating to his corre-
spondent whom he relies upon for assistance — the day, even the
hour, on which he proposes to commence his journey ;the places he intends to halt at for refreshment,and the time he intends to halt for that purpose.

If neglectful of these particu-lars the hamals may reach their stations several days before they are required, and perhaps put the traveller to a great
(iditional expense.

Should the traveller on any occasion wish to halt a day at any place,
his stating his intention previously would save the posting of one set. For instance a traveller from Bombay to Poona will meet the first PoOna set at Khola-
poor, and, supposing that they take him to the top of the ghat
to breakfast, they can, having refreshed themselves, take him
on in the evening to Wurgaon, or they might come to Karlee
to breakfast and run to Wurgaon or Talligaon in the evening.
For the extra labour, however, they would be entitled to at
least half a rupee each man additional.

The hamals at Panwell are under the Collector at Tanna ;
at Poona they are under the Collector in the city and under the bazaar master in camp, and this applies to kolapore."

Now for the question of expense. It may be useful for you
to read the following, unless money is out of the question. " A
set of dak bearers comprises twelve, and one mussalchee, for
which is charged, payable in advance, at the rate of eight annas
per mile ; but as in many instances, owing to the delay caused --

--by travellers remaining longer on the road than the stipulated
time, this sum is found unequal to the expense, a further sum
of four annas per mile is required to be paid as a deposit to
cover any eventual expense or demurrage caused by delay on
the part of .the traveller.

Should none occur the full amount of the sum deposited is refunded, upon the traveller furnishing a certificate from the deputy postmaster at the place where his journey is finished, that he arrived there without incurring
demurrage." And " when it is reported that a  traveller comes on demurrage
on any part of the road, the adjustment of the amount deposited to cover such expenses will be postponed until the receipt of the bills for the dak from all the postmasters through whose divisions the traveller may have passed.

" And if you change your mind during these ten days preliminary to
your intended starting you will require to pay for it, which is
only fair, as '' heaven and earth " have been moved by the
authorities all along the line on your account.

" When dak has been ordered and circumstances may render it expedient
for the traveller to postpone his journey, or to withdraw the
bearers entirely, he will of course be held liable for any expense
which may have been incurred on his account.
 the amount paid for the dak and deposited to cover demurrage willremain unadjusted until reports are received from the General
Postmaster upon the line of route upon which the dak was
ordered."

I will give an abstract of what you will require to pay in
Bombay for your palkee passage alone.

I need not mention that for all meats and drinks and spiritual ordinances you will
require to pay cash down on your line of march.

I conclude you are not going this journey in grandc tcnue, and will dispense
with a butler ; but you will require cherry merry s in numero; to
the bheestie wh o souses you with a chattie of cold water over
your head in the morning, and to fakeers and all the omnium
gatherum of mendicants who will persecute you and howl you
sick until you give them an obolus. You will observe that
through the Nizam's dominions the charges are twice as heavy
as through other territories, and the reason I assign for this is
that all the hamals must come from Hyderabad, and it is the
distance that lends cnhancemiut, not enchantment, to the view


" Had you any companion ? " I once asked a man at the end
of a very long palanquin journey. " The only companion I had
was my pipe," was the reply.

So be sure you take plenty of tobacco and manilla cheroots and several pipes, as everything breakable will go to smash ere you reach Calcutta.

I advise you also to take a copy of Bunyan's Filgrim's Progress in large
type, suitable for schools or for old men whose sight is failing
them, as you will meet with Sloughs of Despond and Hills of
Evil Council galore, and will find when you get there that
Calcutta is not the Celestial City.

Moreover, be not tempted by objects of attraction, unless in your immediate purview. Bijapur and Vizianagar are not to be thought of.

And any subaltern at some military station a few miles from your line
of march, though he be your dearest friend, you must pass
by as if he had no existence.

Such deviations would put your chain of communication out of gear, and disturb the whole harmony of your arrangements. Hundreds of hamals at fifty
different stations are now awaiting you, chewing betel and
cleaning their teeth. Not that they object to the detention.
Every day's delay is a day's additional pay which you will
be required to liquidate.

Rupees.:-

Poona range, 259 miles, cost for 12 hamals and musaul at
each stop
Oil and Mickadura's foes perhaj s additional
^Nizam's Teritory, 275 miles, do., would cost.
masuiipatam CulUctorship, 105 miles „

rajiimundry „ 100 „ „

Vizagapatam „ 122 „ „

Cbicacolc, „ 125 „ „

Cuttack „ 112 „ „

Jelassore „ 126 „ „

To Tumlook „ 95 „ „


326
20
700
33
55
24
31
34
42
26

Total1,319 Miles=Rs. 1,291"

I don't think in the whole of India you could take a more uninteresting journey.


"Chouragautchy near Berhampore,"

Half of the halting stations have unpronounceable names, and of half a hundred more the names you have never heard before.

There is not one city of great And historical renown, neither battlefield nor palace. You have many an ancient river and many a palmy plain, but little else.


And when you are done with it, the Duke's Nose at Khandalla


e

Duke’s nose, Khandala,

Duke’s nose, Khandala,












and the Temple of Orissa dedicated to Jugannath




are about the only objects that will arrest your attention or live in your memory.

In Chicacole at Barwa my guide book says " fine whiting here," and at Ponda " fish and oysters," and I am told to " watch the tide," which to one who has seen the Solway or the race horses in the Gulf of Cambay is poor consolation. No,
my friend, I would not give the pomphlet of Bandra


or the oysters of Jinjeera for all your seas hold between the mouths of the Krishna and the mouths of the great river Mahanadi.

And the Chilka Lake,


with its sands knee-deep. Bah ! Did not Elphinstone feel there " bilious and ill ? " "I walked along the shore at eleven. I found myself still unwell, so I lay down and slept till half-past twelve.

" Had that sleep ended as it sometimes did there would have been a big gap in
the History of India. And here I am reminded by a friend of
thelate Mr. Joseph Jefferson's experiences,which will apply to
1845 or thereabouts. Some of our readers may recollect that
he was long the Father of the Bombay Solicitors, of which fact,
on his resuming practice, Chief Justice Westropp reminded him
in open Court. He was fifty years on the roll of the Solicitors
of the High Court. Mr. Jefferson had been in Ceylon on
professional business, and made his way by sea to Madras. It
was the height of the monsoon, and his further progress by sea
was barred. He applied to the Postmaster to have a palkee dak
laid for Bombay. He was told that it was madness, but the
exigencies of business required his presence in Bom.bay, so
what with strong remonstrances and all other legal means the
dak was laid.

At first the journey was not so bad as he had
anticipated, and became very tolerable as he neared Dharwar.
There are some sappy places about Sholapore, but as to how he
crossed the Bhima, the Sina, or their numerous tributaries there
is no record. The black soil and moorum of Poona would be a
caution, so, with firmer footing for his bearers on the tableland
of the Dekhan above the Ghauts, from which we can imagine
him descending with many a bump, if it was during or soon
after a heavy hursat, a spectacle would meet his eye fit to
appeal the stoutest heart

. We have all seen it, but under very different circumstances (from the cushioned seat of a first class railway carriage).

                                              1899-
First class carriage,






















Campoli Tank almost obliterated as an
entity, or converted into a great sea, that in the dusk stretched to the horizon, with long lines of trees which rose aboA'e and dotted the surface, marking the track of the great Poona High lioad now deep down under water.

How he piloted his way over the labyrinth of muddy dykes,
or floundered through the quaking bogs of Tanna and Kalyan,


or steered his aerial bark over the plastic gum of Salsette,
determined that it should not " serve as paste and cover to his
bones," we cannot imagine.

We take it for granted that Mr. Jefferson had been interned
in his portable tabernacle, excepting for intervals of sleep and
refreshment, for fifteen days. As he emerged from his prison-
house and touched the doorstep of his bungalow at Colaba,
'Bombay - The Esplanade and Colaba in the distance. March 1870 (from the top of Watson's Hotel).




he must have felt like Noah coming out of the ark after the
deluge.that he survived such an ordeal was due to the
Providence of God and a robust constitution.


It is needless to remind the reader that this was the orthodox mode of
locomotion from Sir Thomas Roe to Lord Roberts (for he
travelled in this way for several weeks from Allahabad to
Peshawar) down to the advent of railways.
Town Hall, Bombay.
You ask why the route to Calcutta was not by Nagpore and the Central
Provinces ? We answer that the road was the old route, and
that the Nagpore arrangement was not yet inaugurated. When
one remembers how little there was to see it must have been a
blessed exchange. A glance at that hrochure de luxe, the
Bombay and Baroda Railway Guide for 1895



, makes one bless
his stars that he lives not fifty years ago.

For what would an India be without Ahmedabad, Jeypore, Agra, Delhi or Benares?

Fort of Akbar, Allahabad, 1850s.
fort  of Akbar at Allahabad
 These are names that leave everlasting pictures on the mind's
retina.
 Palace of Agra. Steel engraving,  circa 1850.
palace of Agra
When I scan the names of these great historic cities,
crowded with so many associations, military and political, and
contrast them with the barren and colourless items of the
hundred halting stations by this palkee route,
People and Scenes fom India, Ostindische Kultur, from Meyers Konversation Lexicon, Leipzig and Vienna, published in 1905.
I pity the poor traveller whose lot was sent to make the journey via Masuli-
patam from Bombay to Bengal in the year of Grace 1845.



No comments:
Newer Posts Older Posts Home
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)

Blog Archive

  • ▼  2025 (44)
    • June (14)
    • March (1)
    • February (17)
    • January (12)
  • ►  2024 (940)
    • December (14)
    • November (17)
    • October (5)
    • September (95)
    • August (184)
    • July (161)
    • June (132)
    • May (44)
    • April (97)
    • March (145)
    • February (46)
  • ►  2023 (56)
    • December (12)
    • November (2)
    • October (27)
    • August (11)
    • July (2)
    • May (1)
    • January (1)
  • ►  2022 (2)
    • October (1)
    • July (1)
  • ►  2021 (59)
    • December (2)
    • November (9)
    • October (6)
    • September (1)
    • June (7)
    • May (22)
    • April (3)
    • February (4)
    • January (5)
  • ►  2020 (114)
    • December (16)
    • November (17)
    • October (2)
    • August (4)
    • July (2)
    • May (1)
    • April (6)
    • March (10)
    • February (39)
    • January (17)
  • ►  2019 (22)
    • December (7)
    • November (5)
    • October (1)
    • September (1)
    • May (1)
    • March (1)
    • February (4)
    • January (2)
  • ►  2018 (48)
    • December (2)
    • November (3)
    • October (13)
    • September (3)
    • August (3)
    • June (5)
    • May (7)
    • April (5)
    • March (4)
    • February (2)
    • January (1)
  • ►  2017 (87)
    • December (18)
    • October (4)
    • September (1)
    • July (46)
    • June (3)
    • May (1)
    • April (6)
    • March (5)
    • February (3)
  • ►  2016 (37)
    • November (1)
    • October (8)
    • September (4)
    • August (6)
    • July (3)
    • June (1)
    • May (2)
    • April (3)
    • March (3)
    • February (2)
    • January (4)
  • ►  2015 (59)
    • December (9)
    • November (3)
    • October (3)
    • September (5)
    • August (5)
    • July (6)
    • June (11)
    • May (5)
    • April (5)
    • March (1)
    • February (3)
    • January (3)
  • ►  2014 (121)
    • December (5)
    • November (5)
    • October (2)
    • September (3)
    • August (14)
    • July (3)
    • June (9)
    • May (9)
    • April (29)
    • March (17)
    • February (11)
    • January (14)
  • ►  2013 (191)
    • December (8)
    • November (19)
    • October (23)
    • September (8)
    • August (19)
    • July (14)
    • June (11)
    • May (15)
    • April (35)
    • March (12)
    • February (7)
    • January (20)
  • ►  2012 (100)
    • December (34)
    • November (19)
    • October (13)
    • September (4)
    • August (5)
    • July (15)
    • June (7)
    • February (1)
    • January (2)
  • ►  2011 (252)
    • December (1)
    • November (7)
    • October (55)
    • September (50)
    • August (4)
    • July (1)
    • June (15)
    • April (8)
    • February (34)
    • January (77)
  • ►  2010 (1070)
    • December (135)
    • November (3)
    • October (18)
    • September (20)
    • August (95)
    • July (411)
    • June (197)
    • May (190)
    • March (1)
  • ►  2009 (37)
    • August (1)
    • June (16)
    • February (20)
  • ►  2008 (21)
    • July (21)
Simple theme. Powered by Blogger.