From the bylanes of Babulnath, where we parked the car to the corner of Road 1, where Pinky Chandan Dixit and her husband Aseem Dixit have started a new restaurant, Aamchee, at least four people, including the panwala and another restaurateur, have greeted her with namaste. It’s the respect she has earned over 20 years since she first started Soam at Chowpatty. “Are you nervous about the fate of Aamchee,” we ask immediately.

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“I am,” she replies candidly. “It’s not something we have done before, and it is so different from Soam,” she smiles, “but then, so was Soam. Starting a place that serves seasonal Gujarati comfort dishes in a neighbourhood dominated by the community, we just couldn’t go wrong.”

Varan Bhaat

The idea for Aamchee, the couple’s culinary child, struck when they observed they would have a tough time deciding what to eat when they went out with their daughter. “I see a similar struggle with other families,” says Aseem. “The older generation doesn’t like what the youngsters want, and the latter don’t relate to what their parents or grandparents eat. Aamchee is that middle ground of food we grew up eating in this city, albeit with a modern take. Yet, it isn’t gimmicky or in deconstructed form.”

Pardewala Tomato Soup

Set in a beautiful building at the corner of Babulnath crossroad, the restaurant has three sections, including a private dining room with large windows, one of which looks straight out at the Arabian Sea, and there are nooks where you can curl up with a book or spend a work day eating healthy food and drinks. The tall ceilings and the art-deco interiors of the main dining area remind one of colonial gymkhanas in all their glory. On one side, an olde-fashioned, Bombay-style bakery tempts with pies, pastries, croissants, and other sinful indulgences. “Starting a bakery was an older plan, which got pushed into my retirement plan, but now it has been accelerated. I am glad. We bake our bread too,” says Pinky proudly.

Nariman Chaat

The menu encapsulates the culinary heritage of Mumbai and the people who make the city and call it home. The dishes reflect the myriad histories, communities, and flavours and yet, the list doesn’t entirely rest on nostalgia. It’s an innovative and exciting way to get youngsters interested in food that makes much of Mumbai march on its stomach.

We started with the spicy pomegranate paloma (R250), the chilli nimbu pani (R190)—which had the right amount of tang—and Aamchee sol kadi (R220) that had a simple, soulful zing. The Aamchee pardewala tamatar Soup (R250) is an old-school recipe with a splash of basil oil, covered with a flaky puff pastry crust. Hearty and full of bold, tangy flavours, this soup is enough to keep you warm, especially now with crazy weather changes. “Reminds you of the soup on a train, right?” asks Aseem. “Just that on a train, you won’t have a crust and the drama.” We laugh in unison.

Chilli Nimbu Pani

Next up, the school-wala khatta thela salad (R350): Just as the name suggests, it’s an ode to handcarts selling tangy treats outside schools with raw mangoes, starfruit, and tamarind in a tangy dressing. We also tried the Nariman Salad (R280), street-style black chickpeas tossed in an in-house vinaigrette that one often has on the promenade at Marine Drive. Served in a conical paper cone, it hit the right memory notes.

The Bandra mushroom shami bites (R280)—one of the many creations by Chef Anuradha Medhora of Charoli Foods LLP, who has been consulting with Aamchee for the menu—had vegetarian shami kebabs sandwiched between Bandra’s favourite flaky puff pastry, served with a dollop of cheesy curd dip. The vada pav sliders (R250) were bite-sized offerings in four flavours—chilli mustard, garlic chutney, green thetcha and curry leaf podi—all in white butter. The masala dosa spring roll (R250) had curry leaf spiced potatoes stuffed inside a miniature version of the South Indian thela staple.

Pinky and Aseem Dixit’s idea of Aamchee came from wanting the next generation to enjoy the food of the city, just as they do. Pics/Anurag Ahire

The East Indian waffle chaat (R250) served crunchy potato waffles with ragda spiced with East Indian bottle masala from Chimbai village. Representing the extended city is Sion da alu paratha (R350)—mildly-spiced homestyle potato parathas served with green garlic spiced butter, carrot pickle and a pudina dip. “You don’t have to go fishing for the aloo in the parathas like at most places,” says Aseem. We agree; the filling is not frugal.

Aamchee varan bhaat (R350) is the authentic Maharashtrian comfort meal of simple tuar dal served with a pumpkin preparation, crispy spiced ladyfingers, and papads—a spirited rendition of meals that heal. And what honestly had our hearts was the Khar Sindhi sai bhaji meal (R350): Wholesome spinach and chana dal served with a caramelised onion pulao called bugga rice and papad (of course), along with crispy tikkis.

The IC Colony serradura (R300) dessert gave a twist to the one-note Portuguese classic with orange marmalade-sweetened whipped cream and crumbled ginger biscuits. The Dongri khaja (R350) had gulab jamun and pistachio cream sandwiched between flaky khaja pastry served with kesar rabdi—it melted our hearts. We made space for the towering Knicker Bocker Glory (R450), which was a medley of vanilla ice cream, strawberry compote, fresh strawberries, blueberry compote, fresh blueberries and loads of whipped cream. Aseem plans to run family contests for who can complete the tall glass in one go to bring back good ol’ times of family outings. “Earlier, we’d go out to eat on occasion; now, we eat at home occasionally,” laughs Pinky.

We noticed how Pinky talked to people at the table next to ours, maintaining cheery vibes and the feel-good factor of this bistro-esque restaurant. It made us think that opening another Soam would have been so much easier for the couple, but then, you realise they aren’t in it only for the money. Running a niche restaurant in South Mumbai, believing in your food philosophy and making families feel happy about eating out is what they are in for—for the long haul.

Where: Aamchee, Soni Building, Pandita Ramabai Road, Opposite Bhartiya Vidya Bhavan, Girgaon Chowpatty.
Call: 9769337000

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